BMW 3 & 5 Series Haynes Manual

Warning: Do not remove the pressure cap from the radiator or expansion tank until the engine has cooled completely and

there’s no pressure remaining in the cooling system. Removing the cap from a hot engine risks personal injury by scalding.

Heating system

The heating system consists of a blower fan and heater matrix located in the heater box, with hoses connecting the heater matrix to the engine cooling system, and the heater/air conditioning control head on the dashboard. Hot engine coolant is circulated through the heater matrix passages all the time the engine is running. Switching the heater on opens a flap door to direct air through the heater matrix, and the warmed air enters the passenger compartment. A fan switch on the control head activates the blower motor, which forces more air through the heater matrix, giving additional heater output for demisting, etc.

Air conditioning system

The air conditioning system consists of a condenser mounted in front of the radiator, an evaporator mounted adjacent to the heater matrix, a compressor mounted on the engine, a filter-drier (receiver-drier) which contains a high-pressure relief valve, and the plumbing connecting all of the above components.

A blower fan forces the warmer air of the passenger compartment through the evaporator matrix (a radiator-in-reverse), transferring the heat from the air to the refrigerant. The liquid refrigerant boils off into low-pressure vapour, taking the heat with it when it leaves the evaporator.

Note: Refer to the precautions at the start of Section 12 concerning the potential dangers associated with the air conditioning system.

2Antifreeze - general information

Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin or painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills

immediately with plenty of water. If consumed, antifreeze can be fatal; children and pets are attracted by its sweet taste, so wipe up garage floor and drip pan coolant spills immediately. Keep antifreeze containers covered, and repair leaks in your cooling system as soon as they are noticed.

The cooling system should be filled with a 60/40% water/ethylene-glycol-based antifreeze solution, which will prevent freezing down to approximately -27°C (-17°F). The antifreeze also raises the boiling point of the

coolant, and (if of good quality) provides protection against corrosion.

The cooling system should be drained, flushed and refilled at the specified intervals (see Chapter 1). Old or contaminated antifreeze solutions are likely to cause damage, and encourage the formation of rust and scale in the system. Use distilled water with the antifreeze, if available, or clean rainwater. Tap water will do, but not if the water in your area is at all “hard”.

Before adding antifreeze, check all hose connections, because antifreeze tends to search out and leak through very minute openings. Engines don’t normally consume coolant, so if the level goes down, find the cause and correct it.

The antifreeze mixture should be maintained at its correct proportions; adding too much antifreeze reduces the efficiency of the cooling system. If necessary, consult the mixture ratio chart on the antifreeze container before adding coolant. Hydrometers are available at most car accessory shops to test the coolant. Use antifreeze which meets the vehicle manufacturer’s specifications.

Warning: Do not remove the radiator cap, drain the coolant, or renew the thermostat until the

engine has cooled completely.

Check

1Before assuming the thermostat is to blame for a cooling system problem, check the coolant level, drivebelt tension (see Chapter 1) and temperature gauge (or warning light) operation.

2If the engine seems to be taking a long time to warm up (based on heater output or temperature gauge operation), the thermostat is probably stuck open. Renew the thermostat.

3If the engine runs hot, use your hand to check the temperature of the upper radiator hose. If the hose isn’t hot, but the engine is, the thermostat is probably stuck closed,

3.8 On the M10 (four-cylinder) engine, the thermostat (arrowed) is connected in-line in the radiator hose

preventing the coolant inside the engine from circulating to the radiator. Renew the thermostat.

Caution: Don’t drive the vehicle without a thermostat. The engine will be very slow to warm-up in cold conditions, resulting in poor

fuel economy and driveability. A new thermostat is normally an inexpensive component anyway.

4 If the upper radiator hose is hot, it means that the coolant is flowing and the thermostat is at least partly open. Consult the “Fault finding” Section at the rear of this manual for cooling system diagnosis.

Renewal

All models

5 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

Caution: If the radio in your vehicle is equipped with an antitheft system, make sure you have the correct activation code before disconnecting the battery.

Note: If, after connecting the battery, the wrong language appears on the instrument panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the language resetting procedure.

6 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). If the coolant is relatively new or in good condition, save it and re-use it.

M10 engines

7 The thermostat is located in the bottom hose. First remove the cooling fan.

8Note the fitted position of the thermostat, then unscrew the hose clamps and withdraw the thermostat from the hose connections

(see illustration).

9Refit the thermostat-to-hose connections, and tighten the hose clamps.

10Refit the cooling fan.

M20 and M30 engines

11 Loosen the hose clamp (see illustration), then detach the hose(s) from the thermostat cover.

3.11 On M20 and M30 engine models, loosen the hose clamp (A) and disconnect the hose from the thermostat housing cover - note that the coolant temperature sender unit (barely visible behind the fuel pressure regulator) is located at the top of the thermostat housing (B)

3.15 On M20 and M30 engine models, after the housing and thermostat have been removed, take the O-ring out of the housing and clean the recess in the housing to be sure of a good seal upon reassembly

12 If the outer surface of the fitting that mates with the hose is deteriorated (corroded, pitted, etc.), it may be damaged further by hose removal. If it is, a new thermostat housing cover will be required.

13Remove the bolts and detach the housing cover. If the cover is stuck, tap it with a softfaced hammer to jar it loose. Be prepared for some coolant to spill as the gasket seal is broken.

14Note how it’s fitted, then remove the thermostat.

15Stuff a rag into the engine opening, then remove all traces of old gasket material (if the gasket is paper type). Otherwise, remove the rubber O-ring (see illustration) and sealant from the housing and cover with a gasket scraper. Remove the rag from the opening and clean the gasket mating surfaces.

16Fit the new thermostat and gasket in the housing. Make sure the correct end faces out - the spring end is normally directed towards the engine.

17Refit the cover and bolts. Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

M40 engines

18Remove the cooling fan and timing belt upper cover.

19Unscrew the hose clamp and detach the

3.20a Removing the elbow from the cylinder head (M40 engine)

bottom hose from the elbow on the front of the cylinder head.

20Unbolt the elbow from the cylinder head. Note the fitted position of the thermostat, then remove it (see illustrations). Remove the rubber O-ring; a new one will be needed for reassembly.

21Locate the thermostat in the cylinder head in the same position as noted during removal (arrow pointing upwards).

22Press a new O-ring in the groove, and locate the elbow on the cylinder head. Tighten the bolts.

23Connect the bottom hose to the elbow, and tighten the hose clamp.

24Refit the upper timing belt cover and cooling fan.

All models

25Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1).

26Connect the battery negative cable.

27Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature, then check for leaks and proper thermostat operation (as described earlier in this Section).

Warning: Wait until the engine is completely cool before beginning this procedure.

3.20b Removing the thermostat

(M40 engine)

Note: If the radiator is being removed because it is leaking, note that minor leaks can often be repaired without removing the radiator, using a radiator sealant.

Caution: If the radio in your vehicle is equipped with an antitheft system, make sure you have the correct activation code before disconnecting the battery.

Note: If, after connecting the battery, the wrong language appears on the instrument panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the language resetting procedure.

Removal

1Disconnect the battery negative cable.

2Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). If

the coolant is relatively new, or in good 3 condition, save it and re-use it.

3Loosen the hose clamps, then detach the hoses from the radiator (see illustrations). If they’re stuck, grasp each hose near the end with a pair of water pump pliers, twist gently to break the seal, then pull off - be careful not to distort or break the radiator outlets! If the hoses are old or deteriorated, cut them off and refit new ones.

4On M20 and M30 engines, disconnect the reservoir hose from the radiator filler neck.

5Remove the screws or plastic fasteners that attach the shroud to the radiator, and slide the shroud towards the engine (see illustration). On some engines it is possible to completely remove the shroud.

6If the vehicle has automatic transmission,

4.3a Disconnecting the top hose from the radiator

4.3b Bottom hose connection to the radiator

4.5 Plastic fastener retaining the radiator shroud on some engines

4.7 Sensors that control the highand low-speed operation of the auxiliary cooling fan are located in various places in the radiator tanks

disconnect the fluid cooler lines from the radiator. Use a drip tray to catch spilled fluid. Plug the fluid cooler lines and fittings.

7Disconnect the coolant sensors located on the radiator (see illustration). The thermo- statically-controlled switches for highand low-speed operation of the auxiliary fan are located in the radiator tanks, in various locations depending on engine and model.

8Remove the radiator mounting bolt(s). The mountings are either on the top or sides of the radiator (see illustration).

9Carefully lift out the radiator from the bottom mountings, taking care not to damage the cooling fins. Don’t spill coolant on the vehicle, or scratch the paint.

10With the radiator removed, it can be inspected for leaks and damage. If it needs repair, have a specialist perform the work, as special techniques are required.

11Flies and dirt can be removed from the radiator with compressed air and a soft brush. Don’t bend the cooling fins as this is done.

12Check the radiator mountings for deterioration, and renew if necessary (see illustration).

Refitting

13Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure.

14After refitting, fill the cooling system with the proper mixture of antifreeze and water. Refer to Chapter 1 if necessary.

4.12 When the radiator is out, the radiator mountings can be inspected - check for signs of deterioration, and renew them, if needed

4.8 The radiator is bolted to the front panel at either the sides or the top of the radiator

15 Start the engine and check for leaks. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature, indicated by the upper radiator hose becoming hot. Recheck the coolant level, and add more if required.

16 If you’re working on an automatic transmission model, check and add transmission fluid as needed.

Warning: To avoid possible injury or damage, DO NOT operate the engine with a damaged fan. Do not attempt to repair fan blades -

fit a new fan. Also, the electric auxiliary fan in front of the radiator or air conditioning condenser can come on without the engine running or ignition being on. It is controlled by the coolant temperature of the thermo-switches located in the radiator.

Check

Electric auxiliary fan

Note : This fan on most models is controlled by two thermo-switches placed in the radiator: one for low-speed/low-temperature operation, and one for high-speed/high-temperature operation. Each switch comes on at a different coolant temperature (refer to the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter).

1The thermostatically-controlled switches for highand low-speed operation of the auxiliary fan are fitted in various locations in the radiator (see illustration 4.7), depending on engine or model. Two single switches, or one dual switch, may be fitted.

2Insert a small screwdriver into the connector to lift the lock tab, and unplug the fan wire harness.

3To test the fan motor, unplug the electrical connector at the motor, and use jumper wires to connect the fan directly to the battery. If the fan doesn’t work when connected directly to the battery, the motor is proved faulty, and must be renewed. If the fan works, there’s a

good chance the switch is malfunctioning. To more accurately diagnose the problem, follow the steps that apply to your model. Note: Spin the auxiliary fan motor by hand, to check that the motor or fan isn’t binding. Make sure, however, that the engine is sufficiently cool that there is no danger of the fan cutting-in on its own when this is done.

4To test the low-speed and high-speed circuits, disconnect the electrical connector from one of the fan switches, and bridge the terminals of the switch’s electrical connector with a short piece of wire. The fan should run at low or high speed, depending on which switch has been disconnected. On some models the ignition must be on before the fan will run.

5Repeat the test at the other switch so that both high and low speeds are tested.

6If the low-speed and high-speed circuits are OK, but there has been a problem with the fan not operating correctly in service, renew the switch (or switches). To remove a switch, drain the coolant below the level of the switch (see Chapter 1), then unscrew the switch and screw in the new one. Refill the system with coolant.

7If the switches are satisfactory, but the motor still does not operate, the problem lies in the fuse, the relay, the wiring which connects the components (or the fan motor itself). Carefully check the fuse, relay, all wiring and connections. See Chapter 12 for more information on how to carry out these checks.

Mechanical fan with viscous clutch

8Disconnect the battery negative cable, and rock the fan back and forth by hand to check for excessive bearing play.

Caution: If the radio in your vehicle is equipped with an antitheft system, make sure you have the correct activation code

before disconnecting the battery.

Note: If, after connecting the battery, the wrong language appears on the instrument panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the language resetting procedure.

9With the engine cold, turn the fan blades by hand. The fan should turn with slight resistance.

10Visually inspect for substantial fluid leakage from the fan clutch assembly. If problems are noted, renew the fan clutch assembly.

11With the engine completely warmed up, turn off the ignition switch and disconnect the battery negative cable. Turn the fan by hand. Heavier resistance should be evident. If the fan turns easily, a new fan clutch may be needed.

Removal and refitting

Electric auxiliary fan

12Disconnect the battery negative cable.

13To remove the auxiliary fan follow the procedure that applies to your vehicle.

5.27a The cooling fan on the water pump is attached to the shaft by a left-hand- threaded nut located directly behind the fan . . .

3-Series models

14Remove the radiator grille assembly (see Chapter 11).

15Unbolt and remove the fan bracket and shroud assembly from the radiator (see Section 5).

16Remove the radiator (see Section 4).

17Unbolt the air conditioning condenser mounting bolts, where applicable. Do not remove the condenser or disconnect any refrigerant lines from the condenser.

18Carefully pull the condenser back towards the engine, slightly, to gain access to lift the auxiliary fan.

19Disconnect the fan motor electrical connection and remove the auxiliary fan.

20Refitting is the reverse of removal.

5-Series models

21Remove the screws and trim panel in front of the radiator.

22Unbolt the fan assembly from the condenser mounting points.

23Disconnect the fan electrical connector.

24Remove the fan and housing from the car, being careful not to damage the air conditioning condenser (when applicable) while removing the fan.

25Refitting is the reverse of removal.

Mechanical fan with viscous clutch

26Disconnect the battery negative cable. Remove the fan shroud mounting screws or plastic fasteners, and detach the shroud (see Section 4).

27Use a 32 mm open-ended spanner to remove the fan/clutch assembly. Place the spanner on the large nut ahead of the pulley

(see illustrations), and tap the end of the spanner to loosen the nut.

Caution: The nut has left-handed threads, so it loosens by being turned clockwise, as viewed from the front of the vehicle.

28Lift the fan/clutch assembly (and shroud, if necessary) out of the engine compartment.

29If necessary, remove the four bolts attaching the pulley to the water pump hub. The pulley can then be removed after removing the drivebelt(s) (see illustration).

7.12 Water pump bolt locations on the

M20 engine

M20 engine

9Remove the distributor cap and HT leads, ignition rotor and dust shield (see Chapter 1).

10Where applicable, remove the timing sensor (see Chapter 5).

11Remove the timing belt upper cover (see Chapter 2A).

12Loosen all three water pump mounting bolts. Remove the top and right-hand side bolts, but DON’T remove the lower bolt (see illustration).

13Rotate the pump downwards, and remove the drivebelt tensioner spring and pin.

14Remove the final water pump bolt, and remove the pump.

Caution: Leave the tensioner bolt tight. Be careful to not move the camshaft gear, as damage can occur if the valves are moved.

M30 engine

15Remove the engine lifting bracket.

16Remove the bolts that mount the water pump to the engine block.

17Remove the water pump, and recover the gasket.

M40 engine

18 Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the water pump. If the pump is tight in the cylinder head, insert two bolts in the special lugs at the top and bottom of the pump, and tighten them evenly to press the pump out of the head (see illustrations).

7.23 Fit a new O-ring on the M40 engine water pump

4 If a new sender unit is to be fitted, make sure the engine is completely cool. There will be some coolant loss when the unit is unscrewed, so be prepared to catch it, or have the new unit ready to fit immediately the old one is removed. Disconnect the wiring, then unscrew the old unit from the engine, and fit the new one. Use sealant on the threads. Reconnect the wiring, and check the coolant level on completion.

Removal

Note: The 3-Series models covered by this manual have always used a single blower motor for ventilation, heating and air conditioning. “Old-shape” (E28) 5-Series models use two separate blower motors: one for ventilation and heating, and another for air conditioning. “New-shape” (E34) 5-Series models have a single blower motor, like the 3- Series. The removal and refitting of the single blower motor, and the old-shape 5-Series vent/heat motor, is described below. The removal and refitting of the old-shape 5-Series air conditioning blower motor is described in Section 14 of this Chapter.

Caution: If the radio in your vehicle is equipped with an antitheft system, make sure you have the correct activation code before disconnecting the battery.

Note: If, after connecting the battery, the wrong language appears on the instrument panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the language resetting procedure.

1Disconnect the battery negative cable.

2The blower motor is located behind the bulkhead, under an access panel. Remove the panel securing screws (see illustrations).

3Disconnect or cut the plastic ties holding the wiring harness to the panel, and move the wiring out of the way.

4Remove the panel.

5Unclip the blower housing retaining clip, and the clip securing the blower motor (see illustrations).

9.2a To get to the heater blower motor, the access panel must be removed - a fastener from the front and . . .

6 Disconnect the wiring and remove the blower motor (see illustration).

Testing

7 You can test the blower motor by applying battery voltage to the blower motor’s terminals with fused jumper wires (be sure the fan blades won’t hit anything when they rotate). If the blower motor spins the fan blades rapidly (this test simulates high-speed operation), the blower motor is OK. If the blower motor does not operate, or operates slowly or noisily, renew it.

Note: If the fan blade assemblies need to be removed, mark their relationship to the shaft. The assemblies are balanced during production, and excessive noise or shortened bearing life could result if they are not refitted in exactly the same position in relation to the shaft.

Refitting

8 Refitting is the reverse of removal. Note:

The blower motor may have to be rotated to allow the retaining clip to line up correctly.

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative cable.

9.2b . . . a fastener from the top secure the panel

Caution: If the radio in your vehicle is equipped with an antitheft system, make sure you have the correct activation code before disconnecting the battery.

Note: If, after connecting the battery, the wrong language appears on the instrument panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the language resetting procedure.

3-Series models

2Remove the centre console and side trim pieces.

3Remove the radio (see Chapter 12), then pull the knobs off the heater/air conditioning control levers.

5Disconnect the cables, marking them for accurate refitting.

6Disconnect the electrical connector.

7Remove the lever assembly.

8Each lever assembly can be removed separately.

5-Series models

9 Remove the centre console (see Chapter 11).

10Remove the radio (see Chapter 12), then pull the knobs off the heater/air conditioning control levers.

11Remove the trim bezel, and pull the control unit from the dash. This will allow you to disconnect the control cables from the lever assembly.

9.5a Unclip the retaining strap to remove the blower housing . . .

9.5b . . . and unclip the centre strap that secures the blower motor assembly

the electrical connection from the blower motor

12 Disconnect the cables from the clips securing them to the lever assembly, marking them for accurate refitting.

13Disconnect the electrical connection from the control assembly.

14Remove the screws attaching the bezel to the control assembly, and remove the control assembly.

Refitting

15 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Caution: If the radio in your vehicle is equipped with an antitheft system, make sure you have the correct activation code before disconnecting the battery.

Note: If, after connecting the battery, the wrong language appears on the instrument panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the language resetting procedure.

1Disconnect the battery negative cable.

2Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).

3Remove the centre console (see Chapter 11). Spread an old blanket over the front carpeting; this will prevent stains if any residual coolant spills.

Removal

3-Series models

4Remove the left-hand side heater ducting, and set it aside.

5Remove the heater valve clamp.

6Remove the screws and detach the flange where the two coolant lines enter the heater matrix case. Be careful; some coolant may spill.

7Remove the two screws holding the heater matrix case to the heater main assembly.

8Slide the heater matrix out of the mounting. Be careful not to spill any of the remaining coolant in the heater matrix when removing it.

5-Series models

9 Disconnect the temperature sensor electrical connectors.

10Disconnect the straps holding the wiring to the case, and set the wiring out of the way.

11Unfasten the cover fasteners.

12Remove the screws holding the cover in place, then remove the cover.

13Disconnect all heater pipe connections attached to the heater matrix. Be careful; some coolant may spill.

14Lifting on the right side of the heater matrix first, remove the heater matrix.

Refitting

Note: Always use new O-rings when attaching the coolant lines to the heater matrix.

15 Refitting is the reverse of removal. Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1), then run the engine with the heater on, and check for correct operation and leaks.

Precautions

Warning: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. DO NOT loosen any hose or line fittings, or remove any

components, until after the system has been discharged. Air conditioning refrigerant should be properly discharged by a qualified refrigeration engineer. The refrigerant used in the system must not be allowed into contact with your skin or eyes, or there is a risk of frostbite. Should the refrigerant come into contact with a naked flame, a poisonous gas will be produced. Smoking in the presence of refrigerant is therefore highly dangerous, particularly if refrigerant vapour is inhaled through a lighted cigarette. The refrigerant is heavier than air, and it may cause suffocation if discharged in an enclosed space such as a domestic garage.

Finally, uncontrolled release of the refrigerant causes environmental damage, by contributing to the “greenhouse effect”.

Maintenance

1 The following maintenance checks should be performed on a regular basis to ensure the air conditioner continues to operate at peak efficiency:

a)Check the drivebelt. If it’s worn or deteriorated, renew it (see Chapter 1).

b)Check the system hoses. Look for cracks, bubbles, hard spots and deterioration. Inspect the hoses and all fittings for oil bubbles and seepage. If there’s any evidence of wear, damage or leaks, have new hose(s) fitted.

c)Inspect the condenser fins for leaves, flies and other debris. Use a “fin comb” or compressed air to clean the condenser.

d)Make sure the system has the correct refrigerant charge, as described below.

2It’s a good idea to operate the system for about 10 minutes at least once a month, particularly during the winter. Long-term nonuse can cause hardening, and subsequent failure, of the seals.

3Because of the complexity of the air conditioning system and the special equipment necessary to service it, in-depth fault diagnosis and repair procedures are not included in this manual. However, simple checks and component renewal procedures are provided in this Chapter.

4The most common cause of poor cooling is

simply a low system refrigerant charge. If a noticeable loss of cool air output occurs, the following quick check may help you determine if the refrigerant level is low.

5Warm the engine up to normal operating temperature.

6Set the air conditioning temperature selector at the coldest setting, and put the blower at the highest setting. Open the doors (to make sure the air conditioning system doesn’t switch off as soon as it cools the passenger compartment).

7With the compressor engaged - the compressor clutch will make an audible click, and the centre of the clutch will rotate - feel the tube located adjacent to the right front frame rail, near the radiator.

8If a significant temperature drop is noticed, the refrigerant level is probably OK.

9If the inlet line has frost accumulation, or feels cooler than the receiver-drier surface, the refrigerant charge is low. Recharging the system should be carried out by a qualified refrigeration engineer.

Warning: Due to the potential dangers associated with the system, you are strongly advised to have any work on the air

conditioning system carried out by a BMW dealer or air conditioning specialist. At the very least, DO NOT dismantle any part of the system (hoses, compressor, line fittings, etc.) until after the system has been discharged by a qualified engineer. Refer to the precautions given at the start of Section 12.

Note: If a new compressor is fitted, the receiver-drier (see Section 16) should also be renewed.

Removal

1 Have the air conditioning system discharged (see Warning above).

2 Disconnect the battery negative cable.

Caution: If the radio in your vehicle is equipped with an antitheft system, make sure you have the correct activation code before disconnecting the battery.

Note: If, after connecting the battery, the wrong language appears on the instrument panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the language resetting procedure.

3Disconnect the compressor clutch wiring harness.

4Remove the drivebelt (see Chapter 1).

5Disconnect the refrigerant lines from the rear of the compressor. Plug the open fittings to prevent entry of dirt and moisture.

6Unbolt the compressor from the mounting

13.6 From under the vehicle, remove the bolt from the lower air conditioning compressor mounting

brackets, and lift it up and out of the vehicle

(see illustration).

Refitting

7If a new compressor is being fitted, follow any instructions supplied with the compressor regarding the draining of excess oil prior to fitting.

8The clutch may have to be transferred to the new compressor.

9Refitting is the reverse of removal. All O- rings should be replaced with new ones specifically made for use in air conditioning systems. Lubricate them with refrigerant oil when fitting.

10Have the system evacuated, recharged and leak-tested by the qualified engineer who discharged it.

14Air conditioning blower motor 1

(E28/“old-shape” 5-series models) - removal and refitting

Note: Refer to Section 9 for information on “new-shape” (E34) 5-Series models.

Caution: If the radio in your vehicle is equipped with an antitheft system, make sure you have the correct activation code before disconnecting the battery.

Note: If, after connecting the battery, the wrong language appears on the instrument panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the language resetting procedure.

Removal

1Disconnect the battery negative cable.

2Remove the centre console (see Chapter 11).

3Disconnect the blower motor electrical connector from the motor.

4Unbolt the blower motor mountings from the main case.

5Remove the air conditioning blower motor assembly. You can check the motor by following the procedure described in Section 9.

Refitting

6 Refitting is the reverse of removal.

15 Air conditioning condenser - 5 removal and refitting

Warning: Due to the potential dangers associated with the system, you are strongly advised to have any work on the air

conditioning system carried out by a BMW dealer or air conditioning specialist. At the very least, DO NOT dismantle any part of the system (hoses, compressor, line fittings, etc.) until after the system has been discharged by a qualified engineer. Refer to the precautions given at the start of Section 12.

Note: If a new condenser is fitted, the receiver-drier (see Section 16) should also be renewed.

Removal

1 Have the air conditioning system discharged (see Warning above).

2Remove the radiator (see Section 4) except on “new-shape” (E34) 5-series models. On the latter, remove the front bumper (see Chapter 11).

3Remove the radiator grille (see Chapter 11).

4Unbolt the auxiliary fan from the air conditioning condenser mounting brackets.

5Disconnect the refrigerant lines from the condenser.

6Remove the mounting bolts from the condenser brackets.

7Lift the condenser out of the vehicle, and plug the lines to keep dirt and moisture out.

8If the original condenser is being refitted, store it with the line fittings uppermost, to prevent oil from draining out.

Refitting

9Refit the components in the reverse order of removal. Be sure the rubber pads are in place under the condenser.

10Have the system evacuated, recharged and leak-tested by the qualified engineer who discharged it.

Warning: Due to the potential dangers associated with the system, you are strongly advised to have any work on the air

conditioning system carried out by a BMW dealer or air conditioning specialist. At the very least, DO NOT dismantle any part of the system (hoses, compressor, line fittings, etc.) until after the system has been discharged by a qualified engineer. Refer to the precautions given at the start of Section 12.

16.4 All models have the receiver-drier located behind the right headlight, although the configuration of lines and switches may vary

1High-pressure switch

2Refrigerant lines

3Low-pressure switch

4Electrical connector

Removal

1Have the system discharged (see Warning above).

2Disconnect the battery negative cable.

Caution: If the radio in your vehicle is equipped with an antitheft system, make sure you have the correct activation code

language resetting procedure.

3 Remove the windscreen washer fluid reservoir.

4Disconnect the electrical connector(s) from the receiver-drier - note that not all models have both the highand low-pressure switches (see illustration).

5Disconnect the refrigerant lines from the receiver-drier.

6Plug the open line fittings, to prevent the entry of dirt and moisture.

7Remove the mounting screws and remove the receiver-drier.

Refitting

8If a new receiver-drier is being fitted, it may be necessary to add a quantity of refrigerant oil - follow the instructions supplied with the new unit.

9Remove the old refrigerant line O-rings, and fit new ones. This should be done regardless of whether a new receiver-drier is being fitted.

10If a new receiver-drier is being fitted, unscrew the pressure switches and transfer them to the new unit before fitting (see illustration 16.4). Not all models have both the highand low-pressure switches.

11Lubricate the O-rings with refrigerant oil before assembly.

Refitting

12 Refitting is the reverse of removal, but be sure to lubricate the O-rings with refrigerant oil before connecting the fittings.

13 Have the system evacuated, recharged and leak-tested by the qualified engineer who discharged it.

Warning: Due to the potential dangers associated with the system, you are strongly advised

to have any work on the air conditioning system carried out by a BMW dealer or air