Vegetable risotto

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE:

STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four servings (500g/2 cups)

40 minutes overall, including 30 minutes unattended

serve immediately; parcooked rice and cooking liquid keep for up to 3 days when refrigerated

easy

juicer

For traditional risotto, chefs insist that the rice requires constant stirring and fussing until the very last minute. We agree that good risotto should be al dente and is best served immediately, but we prefer a quicker method that requires much less of the cook’s atten­tion: parcook the grains, and then chill them on a frozen baking sheet, which stops the cooking without rinsing away the valuable

starches. Finishing, which can be done days later, then takes just a few minutes before serving.

The results are just as good as the old-fashioned method. Good stock, fresh vegetable juices, and aged Gouda cheese give this version a bold vegetable flavor. Risotto is a wonderful base for a variety of flavors; see pages 154-155 for suggestions.

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Shallots, minced	40 g	6 Tbsp	20%	© Place a baking sheet in the freezer for at least 30 minutes.
Neutral frying oil see page viii	20 g	20 mL/VA Tbsp	10%	© Sweat the shallots in oil in a medium pot until tender and translucent, about 2 minutes.
Carnaroli rice (or other short-grain rice for risotto, such as Arborio or Vialone Nano)	200 g	1 cup	100%	© Stir into the shallot mixture, and cook until shiny and slightly toasted, about 2 minutes.
Vegetable stock see page 13	180 g	180 mL/3/а cup	90%	© Stir into the rice mixture, and simmer for 6 minutes to parcook the rice. © Drain, reservingthe cooking liquid.
Fresh carrot juice	110 g	110 mL/'/о cup from 2-3 carrots	55%	© Spread the rice in a single layer on the frozen baking sheetto cool. © When you are ready to complete the risotto, combine the cooled rice
Fresh celeryjuice (or additional stock)	110 g	110 mL/y2 cup from 3-4 stalks	55%	and cooking liquid in a pot, and simmerthe mixture over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until the liquid has thickened and the rice is
Dry vermouth or white wine	50 g	50 mL/3'/2 Tbsp	25%	al dente, 3-5 minutes.
Aged Gouda cheese, finely grated	100 g	VA cups	50%	© Stir into the warm risotto.
Unsalted butter, cubed	12 g	1 Tbsp	6%
Salt	to taste			© Season the risotto, and serve it immediately.

”1 Place a baking sheet in the freezer, and allow it to chill for at least

* 30 minutes.

Place the shallots and oil together in a medium pot, and sweat until the shallots are tender and translucent but not brown, about 2 minutes.

*3 Stirthe rice into the shallot mixture, and cook until the rice turns shiny and slightly toasted, about 2 minutes.

/| Stirthe vegetable stock, vegetable juices, and vermouth or wine into

¹ the rice mixture, and simmer it for 6 minutes. This parcooks the grains, but they should remain firm on the inside.

^ Drain the rice, reservingthe cooking liquid.

Quickly spread the rice in a single layer on the frozen baking sheet to stop the cooking. You can speed the chilling process by putting the baking sheet back in the freezer for 5 minutes.

"7 When you are ready to finish the cooking, combine the cooled rice and cooking liquid, and simmer over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until the liquid has thickened and the rice is al dente, 3-5 minutes. Add liquid as needed.

Q Stirthe grated cheese and butter into the warm risotto.

Season the risotto with salt to taste, and serve it immediately.

VARIATION; Pressure-Cooked Risotto

To make risotto even fasterthan this recipe does, cook it in a pressure cooker. Follow steps 1-6 in the recipe for Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco (see the next page), but use the ingredients and quantities given for the Vegetable Risotto recipe. Then continue at step 8.four servings (400 g/2 cups, excluding snails)

25 YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE:

STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

minutes overall

serve immediately; cooked rice keeps for up to 3 days when refrigerated easy

pressure cooker, bomba rice, pimentуn dulce, piquillo peppers, Brown Chicken Stock (see variation on page 9), Sous Vide Braised Snails (optional, seepage 135)

Paella has gained a reputation as a dish for special occasions because it is so time-consuming to make. But it doesn’t have to be: with little more than 25 minutes of total labor, you can use this recipe to make incredibly flavorful and creamy Valencia-style paella. We chose to add snails because they are historically an original garnish for paella.

Cooked chicken, shrimp, crabmeat, or duck breast can all be folded into the rice instead of, or along with, the snails. For an elegant touch, finely shave some fresh porcini mushrooms, when they are in season, over the finished dish.

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Olive oil Piquillo peppers	40 g 50 g	45 mL/3Tbsp '/3 cup	27% 33%	© Sweat the vegetables in oil in the base of a pressure cooker over medium heat until tender and translucent, about3 minutes.
(store-bought), minced
Fennel, minced	25 g	% cup	17%
Sweet onion, minced	25 g	3 Tbsp	17%
Carrot, minced	20 g	2 Tbsp	13%
Garlic, minced	7.5 g	1 Tbsp	5%
Bomba rice (or other	150 g	3/i cup	100%	© Stir into the vegetable mixture, and cook until the rice turns shiny and
short-grain paella rice)				translucent, about 2 minutes.
Brown Chicken Stock	300 g	300 mL/1 V* cups	200%	© Stir into the rice mixture.
see variation on page 9 Dry sherry	70 g	70 mL/'/3 cup	47%	© Pressure-cookat a gauge pressure ofl bar/15 psi for 7 minutes. Start timing when full pressure is reached. © Depressurize the cooker. ® Check the rice for tenderness. It should be al dente. If necessary, simmer uncovered for a minute or two longer.
Pimentуn dulce (smoked,	7g	1 Tbsp	5%	© Stir into the rice, and let rest fori minute.
sweet paprika)
Thyme leaves	2g	1 Tbsp	1%
Saffron threads		5 threads
(optional)
Salt	to taste			© Season.
Sous Vide Braised Snails	200 g	24 snails	133%	© Fold into the paella, and serve it immediately.
(optional), cut in half and warmed
see page!35
Lemon zest, finely grated	to taste

Safety tips for pressure-cooking: see page 5

“| Sweat the vegetables in olive oil in the base of a pressure cooker over

* medium heat until they become tender and translucent but not brown,

about 3 minutes.

Stirthe rice into the vegetable mixture, and cook until the rice turns shiny and slightly translucent, about2 minutes.

Stirthe chicken stock and sherry into the rice mixture.

A Pressure-cook the mixture at a gauge pressure of 1 bar/15 psi for 7 minutes. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached. Larger amounts of rice will need more time.

^ Run tepid water overthe rim ofthe cooker to depressurize it quickly,

₆

Check the rice for doneness. The grains should be al dente: firm to the bite but not hard or crunchy. Ifthe rice is notquite done, simmer it for

1- 2 minutes more, uncovered. Stir it constantly.

“7 Stirthe pimentуn, thyme, and saffron into the rice. Let the paella rest ’ fori minute so thatthe flavors infuse and the starch slightly cools and thickens.

^ Season the paella with salt to taste.

Q Fold the snails and lemon zest into the paella. Garnish with additional snails, and serve it immediately.

To make ahead, see the instructions on page 326 in the main volume.RISOTTO AND PAELLA VARIATIONS

Each ofthe variations below includes complete cooking instruc­tions, but follows the general method for making Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco on the previous page. In each case, use a gauge pressure of 1 bar / 15 psi, start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached, and depressurize the cooker quickly by running tepid water over the rim before opening it; see the safety tips for pressure-cooking on page 5. If the rice or grain is not quite done after pressure-cooking, simmer it for 1-2 minutes more. To make

a dish having a drier consistency, simmer the mixture after pressure- cooking; for a soupy, creamier dish, add more liquid. If parcooking the grain, as described in the recipe on page 152, you may need to increase the quantity of liquid by up to 25% to allow for increased evaporation.

You can substitute finely minced sweet onions for the shallots in these recipes, and use additional butter or olive oil to add richness.

Arborio Rice with Caramelized Squash			and Saffron		Forbidden Rice with Squid Ink and Sous Vide Clams
Shallots, minced	20 g	2 Tbsp		Shallots, minced		30g	Va cup
Neutral frying oil	20 g	20 mL/l'/2 Tbsp		Neutral frying oil		20 g	20 mL/l'/оTbsp
Arborio orsimilarshort-grain	150 g	Ya cup		Forbidden rice		150 g	3A cup
risotto rice				Pressure-Cooked		150 g	150 mL/yo cup
Fresh carrotjuice	200 g	200 mL/% cup		Crustacean Stock
Chardonnay or other	100 g	100 mL/3/> cup		see page 12
fruity white wine				Fino sherry		75 g	75 mL/5Tbsp
Butternut squash puree	100 g	3/a cup		Squid ink		7.6 g	V/i tsp
see variation on page 76				Clam meat, cooked sous vide*			12 clams
Saffron		4-5 threads		see page 128
Grana Padano cheese, grated	90g	1Va cups		Extra-virgin olive oil		50 g	55 mL/y cup
Salt	to taste			Salt		to taste
Marcona almonds	as needed			Meyer lemon zest, grated		as needed

Saute the shallots in oil over medium heat in the base of a pressure cooker until translucent, about3 minutes. Stir in the rice, and cookforl minute more. Add the carrot juice and Chardonnay, and pressure-cook for 6 minutes. Stir in the squash puree, saffron threads, and cheese. Season with salt, and garnish with a fine shaving of Microplaned almonds.

Sautй the shallots in oil over medium heat in the base of a pressure cooker until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the rice, and cook over medium heat fori minute more. Stir in the crustacean stock, sherry, and squid ink, and pressure-cook for 12 minutes. While the rice is cooking, remove the bellies from the clams, and chop the remaining pieces. Fold the chopped clams and olive oil into the cooked rice. Season with salt, and garnish with the clam bellies and grated lemon zest.

'Safety Upsfor lightly cooked food: see page ix

Barley with Wild Mushrooms and Red Wine

V/i cups

'/3 cup 3Tbsp

20 mL/P/iTbsp Va cup

180 mL/y cup

100 mL/y8 cup Vп cup

Steel-Cut Oats with Sous Vide Braised Snails

Steel-cut oats 150 g fucup

Chicken stock 230 g 230 mL/1 cup

see page 9

Pastisorouzo 50 g 65mL/!4cup

Pressure-Cooked Garlic 60 g Va cup

Confit, sieved see page 44

Unsalted butter 50 g % cup

Parmigiano-Reggiano 40 g '/2 cup

Sous Vide Braised Snails 65 g about 8 snails

see page 135

Salt to taste

Green apple, diced 25 g Va cup

Italian parsley, minced 8g 2yaTbsp

Combine the oats with the chicken stock and pastis or ouzo in a pressure cooker, and pressure-cook for 7 minutes. Stir in the garlic confit, butter, and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Fold in the snails gently. Season with salt, and garnish with the apple and Italian parsley. Garnish with additional snails and grated cheese, if desired.

Wild mushrooms (maitake, 140 g

oyster, shiitake), minced Shallots, minced 40 g

Unsalted butter 35 g

Neutral frying oil 20 g

see pageviii

Pearl barley 150 g

Mushroom Stock, enhanced 180 g

with crumbled dry porcinis

see page 15

Red wine (Syrah) 100 g

Gruyиre cheese, grated 65 g

Salt to taste

Black pepper to taste

Sautй the wild mushrooms and shallots in the butter and oil over medium heat in the base of a pressure cooker until translucent, about 3 minutes. Stir in the barley, and cook fori minute more. Add the mushroom stock and wine, and pressure-cook for 20 minutes. Stir in the grated cheese until melted. Season with salt and pepper. Garnish with additional cheese and sautйed mushrooms, if desired.

Quinoa, rinsed and drained	150 g	% cup	Shallots, minced	30g	V* cup
Neutral frying oil	10g	10 mL/2 tsp	Neutral frying oil	28 g	30 mL/2 Tbsp
see pageviii			see pageviii
Vegetable stock	275 g	275 mL/l'/aCups	Farro	150 g	% cup
see page 13			Vegetable stock	200 g	200 mL/% cup
Dry vermouth	75 g	75 mL/5 Tbsp	see page 13
Asparagus, very thinly sliced	70 g	1 cup	Dry white wine	80 g	80 mL/1/) cup
Pistachio Pesto	200 g	3/4 cup	Sous Vide Chicken, diced	120 g	cup
see page 22			see page 108
Unsalted butter, cubed	20 g	2 Tbsp	M icrowave-coo ked	100 g	2-3 hearts
Salt	to taste		artichoke hearts, sliced
Ricotta salata, finely grated	40 g	% cup	see table on page 162 Olive oil	40 g	45 mL/3Tbsp
Sautй the quinoa fori minute in oil over medium heat in the base of a pres­			Black olives, slivered	18g	2 Tbsp
sure cooker. Add the vegetable stock and vermouth, and pressure-cook			Sait	to taste
for4 minutes. Stir in the sliced asparagus, pistachio pesto, and butter, and

Quinoa with Pistachio Pesto and Asparagus

Farro with Chicken, Artichokes, and Black Olives

then season with salt. Garnish with grated ricotta salata and some sauteed Saute the shallots in oil over medium heat in the base of a pressure

asparagus tips. cooker until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the farro, and cook for

1 minute more. Stir in the vegetable stock and wine, and pressure-cook for15 minutes. Fold in the chicken, artichoke hearts, olive oil, and olives. Season with salt.

Arborio Rice with Sea Urchin and Cocoa Bomba Rice with Chorizo and Broccoli-Gruyere Puree

Shallots, minced	35 g	V* cup	Shallots, minced	50 g	6 Tbsp
Neutral frying oil	20 g	20 mL/l'/i Tbsp	Neutral frying oil	40 g	45 mL/3Tbsp
see page viii			see page viii
Arborio orsimilarshort-grain	150 g	У4 cup	Spanish chorizo, casing	150 g	cup
risotto rice			removed
Sous Vide Fish Stock	200 g	200 mL/^e cup	Bomba orsimilarshort-grain	150 g	3A cup
see page 11			paella rice
Dry sake	60 g	60 mL/V* cup	Water	230 g	230 mL/1 cup
Freshly squeezed grapefruit	40 g	40 ml/Vi cup	Wheat beer	80 g	80 mL/Уз cup
juice			Broccoli-Gruyere Puree	150 g	У«, cup
Sea urchin, pressed through	30g	3Tbsp	see variation on page 76
a sieve*			Extra-virgin olive oil	70 g	80 mL/Уз cup
Grapefruit zest, finely grated	4g	1 Tbsp	Salt	to taste
Cocoa powder	as needed		Garlic, thinly sliced and fried	as needed
Tarragon leaves	as needed		until crisp

Saute the shallots in oil over medium heat in the base of a pressure cooker Saute the shallots in oil over medium heat in the base of a pressure

until translucent, about3 minutes. Add the rice, and cook over medium cooker until translucent, about3 minutes. Add the chorizo and rice,

heat fori minute more. Add the fish stock, sake, and grapefruit juice, and and cook over medium heat fori minute more. Stir in the water and

pressure-cook for 6 minutes. Stir in the sea urchin and grapefruit zest. beer, and pressure-cook for 7 minutes. Stir in the broccoli puree and

Season with salt, and garnish with tarragon leaves, a dusting of cocoa extra-virgin olive oil. Season with salt, and garnish with fried garlic,

powder, and sea urchin tongue. and a few blanched broccoli florets.

*Safety tipsfor lightly cookedfood: see page ix

1 55

RISOTTO AND PAELLAYIELD: four servings (450 g/ 2 cups)

time estimate: 20 minutes overall, including 8 minutes of preparation and 12 minutes unattended

STORAGE NOTES: keeps for 3 days when refrigerated

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate

SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: pressure cooker, two 500 mL/16 oz canning jars, ricotta salata or Cotija cheese

GOES well WITH: Strawberry Marinara (see page 33)

The traditional version of polenta can take more than an hour to We cook the polenta in corn stock for an incredibly intense corn

cook; a pressure cooker greatly reduces the time and effort required. taste.

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Clarified, unsalted butter or neutral-tasting oil see page 37	15 g	15 mL/1 Tbsp	15%	© Heat in a pan over low heat.
Dry polenta (ground cornmeal, not instant)	100 g	SM cup	100%	© Add to the pan, and toast, stirring constantly, until golden brown, about 4 minutes.
Toasted Corn Stock, vegetable stock, meat stock, or water see page 14	300 g	300 mi/VA cups	300%	© Divide the toasted cornmeal evenly into two 500 mL/16 oz canning jars. © Stir half of the corn stock or water into each jar. Tighten the lids fully, and then unscrew one-quarter turn. © Place a metal rack or trivet on the base of a pressure cooker, add 2.5 cm/1 in ofwater, and place the filled jars on the trivet. © Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure ofl bar/15 psi for 12 minutes. Start timing when full pressure is reached. © Depressurize the cooker, and let the jars cool slightly before opening. © Spoon the cooked polenta into a small pot.
Mascarpone or cream cheese	20 g	4 tsp	20%	© Stir into the cooked polenta, over low heat, until fully incorporated.
Ricotta salata or Cotija cheese, finely grated	15 g	3Tbsp	15%
Basil, julienned Ricotta salata Salt	1g as needed to taste	3 leaves	1%	© Season the polenta, and garnish it with basil and grated cheese. It goes well with marinara sauce (see pages 32 and 33).

Safety tips for pressure-cooking: see page 5

“I Heat the clarified butter or oil in a pan over low heat. Using clarified butter avoids any specks of browned butter in the finished polenta.

Add the cornmeal to the pan, and toast it, stirring constantly, until it turns golden brown, about 4 minutes. This adds a nice, nutty flavor to the polenta.

^ Divide the cornmeal evenly into two 500 mL/16 oz canning jars.

/\ Stir half (150 g/150 mL/% cup) ofthe corn stock or water into each jar.

¹ Tighten the lids fully, and then unscrew them one-quarter turn so that the jars don't explode.

C Place a metal rack or trivet on the base ofthe pressure cooker, pour in watertoadepth of 2.5 cm/1 in, and then place the filled jars on the trivet.

TO MAKE AHEAD

After step 7, you can refrigerate the polenta until you are ready to use it.

To reheat the polenta, warm it in a saucepan over low heat, and stir in a

few additional tablespoons of water or cream.

Cl Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure ofl bar/15 psiforl2 minutes.

” Starttimingassoon as full pressure has been reached.

^ Depressurize the cooker quickly by running tepid water over the rim.

* Let the jars cool slightly before opening them. This helps to avoid splattering.

Spoon the cooked polenta into a small pot.

Q Stirthe mascarpone and the ricotta salata into the polenta over low heat until the cheeses are fully incorporated. Forspecial dinners, we add even more mascarpone for a richer mouthfeel.

1 Season the polenta, and garnish it with marinara sauce (see

* " page 32), grated ricotta salata, and julienned basil.

VARIATION: Corn Juice Grits

For an even more intense corn flavor, substitute corn juice forthe corn stock. Juice 1.5 kg/10 cups of fresh or frozen corn kernels, and allow the juice to sit undisturbed until the natural starch settles to the bottom, about 2 hours. Use the juice in the recipe; discard the starch.SHRIMP AND GRITS

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four servings (950 g/4 cups)

50 minutes overall, including 30 minutes of preparation and 20 minutes unattended

serve immediately

easy

sous vide setup, pressure cooker, two 500 mL/16 oz canning jars, Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Stock (seepage 12), Redeye Gravy (seepage 19)

You can make grits from course-ground cornmeal of nearly any variety: white, yellow, or blue. The kind of corn and size of the grind affect the cooking time and the amount of water needed, however. Avoid instant grits, which offer shorter cooking times but only at the cost of a much blander flavor. Instead, use a pressure cooker and enjoy the real dish, quickly and without constant stirring. For a slightly more traditional take, top a bowl of grits with prawns, either seared or poached sous vide (see the table on page 128).

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Eggs		4 large		® Preheat a water bath to 65 “C/149 °F. (D Cookthe eggs in their shells sous vide for 45 minutes.
Pressure-Cooked 500 g Crustacean Stock (shrimp) see page 12 Corn grits (coarse-ground 125 g cornmeal)		500 mL/2 cups 3A cup	400% 100%	© Stir well to combine, and then divide evenly between two 500 mL/16 oz canning jars. Tighten the lids fully, and then unscrew one-quarter turn. © Place a rack ortrivet in the base ofa pressure cooker, add 2.5 cm/1 in of water, and place the filled jars on the trivet. © Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure ofl bar/15 psi for 20 minutes. Start timing when full pressure is reached. © Depressurize the cooker quickly by running tepid water over the rim. Let the jar contents cool slightly before opening to avoid splattering. © Spoon the cooked grits into a small pot, and stirthem well.
Unsalted butter, cubed	50 g	3Tbsp	40%	© Stir into the grits over low heat.
Salt	to taste			® Season the grits, and divide them evenly into serving bowls. © Top each bowl with a peeled, soft-cooked egg.
Redeye Gravy, warm see page 19	80g	1/2 cup	64%	© Pour overthe grits and eggs, and serve immediately.

Safety tips for pressure-cooking: see page 5

l

4

Preheat a water bath to 65 “C/149 °F.

Cookthe eggs sous vide in their shells for 45 minutes. This yields poached eggs with a delicate, creamy texture. You can proceed with steps 3-9 while the eggs cook.

Stirthe crustacean stock and grits to combine them. Divide the mixture evenly between two 500 mL/16 oz canning jars. Tighten the lids fully, and then unscrewthem one-quarter turn; this prevents them from ex­ploding. Alternatively, freeze the stock, and then vacuum seal it with the grits in a bag rated forthe highertemperature ofa pressure cooker.

Place a metal rack ortrivet in the base ofa pressure cooker, add water to a depth of 2.5 cm/1 in, and then place the filled jars on the trivet.

VARIATION: Cheese Grits

Substitute milk, water, chicken stock, or vegetable stock for the crustacean stock. At step 8, stir in 100 g/Vi cup each of heavy cream and grated cheddar cheese when you add the butter. Top with sliced scallions and green chilies instead ofgravy.

C Pressure-cook the grits at a gauge pressure of 1 bar/15 psi for

20 minutes. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached. The grits cook slightly faster, in about 15 minutes, when vacuum sealed in a bag ratherthan placed in canning jars.

fZ Depressurize the cooker quickly by running tepid water overthe rim. ^ Allow the jar contents to cool slightly before opening them so that they don't splatter.

Spoon the cooked grits into a small pot, and stirthem well.

g Stirthe butter into the grits over low heat.

Season the grits with salt. Divide them evenly into four serving bowls.

10 Top each bowl of grits with a peeled, soft-cooked egg.

“I “I Pour warm gravy overthe eggs and grits, and serve them

* ■ immediately.six to 10 servings (1.5 kg/about 20 tamales)

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: GOES WELL WITH:

3V2 hours overall, including 1 hour of preparation and 2V2 hours unattended keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen moderate

stand mixer, food processor, pressure cooker, masa harina, dried corn husks Pressure-Cooked Carnitas (seepage 94), Salsa Verde (seepage 31)

Tamales, made of steamed com batter, are the Latin American ver­sion of a set cornmeal mush popular in the American South or the set polenta popular in Italy. These tamales are intensely flavored of corn. They are a marvelous side dish. If you prefer more of an entree, fill them with shredded meat such as carnitas (see page 94), short ribs (see variation on page 95), or adobo (see page 98). Or experiment with nontraditional fillings: vegetables or grated Cotija, ricotta, or white cheddar cheese. Instead of lard, substitute rendered pork, chicken, or bacon fat (see page 41) to add considerably more flavor. Garnish with pickled chilies and Mexican salsa, either store- bought or Salsa Verde (see page 31).

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Dried corn husks		20 husks		® Soak in warm water until the husks are pliable, at least 30 minutes. Shake them dry.
Lard or unsalted butter	225 g	1 cup	50%	(D Whip in a stand mixer, scraping the sides often, until light and airy, about 5 minutes.
Masa harina (Maseca brand)	450 g	3'/2 cups	100%	® Gradually add to the mixer, alternating between the two ingredients, until fully blended to make masa batter.
Toasted Corn Stock or water, lukewarm see page 14	300 g	300 mL/1 Vi cups	67%
Fresh corn kernels, cut from the cob	525 g	3’/2 cups/4 cobs	117%	© Combine in a food processor, and blend to make corn puree. © Fold the corn puree and masa batter togetherto make the tamale batter.
Unsalted butter, melted	22 g	25 mL/2Tbsp	4.9%	© Place a dollop of tamale batter, about 70 g/5 Tbsp, in each corn husk,
Sour cream, crиme fraоche, or crema	22 g	IV«! Tbsp	4.9%	and wrap firmly. ® Arrange the tamales, seam-side down, on a metal rack or trivet in a
Sugar	15 g	1 Tbsp	3.3%	pressure cooker, and then add 2.5 cm/1 in ofwater.
Salt	14 g	1 Tbsp	3.1%	© Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure ofl bar/15 psi for 20 minutes. Start timing when full pressure is reached. © Depressurize the cooker. © Allow the tamales to cool until set, about 2 hours. © Steam over boiling water for 15-20 minutes to reheat, and serve hot.

Safety tips for pressure-cooking: see page 5

VARIATION: Corn Juice Tamales

Fora more intense corn flavor, substitute Corn Juice (see variation on page 156) for the water or corn stock in the tamale batter.

WHILE YOU'RE AT IT: Hush Puppies

Follow steps 2-5 above to make tamale batter. Deep-fry small (15 g/1 Tbsp) balls ofthe tamale batter in 175 °C/350°F neutral frying oil (see page viii) until they turn brown and crispy, 3-4 minutes. You might try a southern Ohio trick we learned from the family of one of our research chefs: sub­stitute lemon-lime soda for one quarter ofthe stock or water. Another alternative we love is to lighten the batter by whipping 108 g/Vi cup of egg whites (from about 3 eggs), and then stirring them in after step 5. Yet another option is to grind freeze-dried com to a powder, and then roll the batter in it to yield an extremely crunchy crust and an extra burst of corn flavor. For deep-frying safety tips, see page 4.Soak the dried corn husks in warm water until they become pliable, at Ieast30 minutes. Shake them dry.

O Whip the lard or butter in a stand mixer, scraping the sides ofthe bow! frequently, until it turns light and airy.

*3 Add the masa harinaand corn stock or water to the mixer gradually, alternating additions ofthe two ingredients. Mix until fully blended to make the masa batter. When the batter is properly whipped, a dollop will float in a glass of water.

/\ Combine the fresh corn kernels, melted butter, sour cream, sugar, and

* salt in a food processor, and blend until evenly combined into a corn puree. The puree doesn't have to be perfectly smooth; the chopped corn kernels lend a nice texture to the tamales.

^ Fold the corn puree into the masa batterto make the tamale batter.

Ј2 Place a dollop (about 70 g/5 Tbsp) ofthe tamale batter in each corn husk, and wrap each one firmly. One side of each corn husk naturally forms a cup shape. Place the batter in this cup, use the natural curl of the corn husk to enclose the batter, and then fold the top ofthe husk down to seal the package. Tie it closed with a narrow strip of corn husk ora piece of string, if necessary.

^ Stack the tamales, seam-side down, on a trivet or rack in a pressure

' cooker. Pour in waterto a depth of 2.5 cm/1 in.

O Pressure-cook the tamales at a gauge pressure of! bar/15 psi for 20 minutes. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached.

Q Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it.

"I Cool the tamales completely, about 2 hours, to give the starches

time to gel.

1“I Reheat the tamales by steaming them overboilingwaterfor

* * 15-20 minutes. Alternatively, microwave them, a few at a time,

on full powerforl-2 minutes. Serve them hot.yield: four servings (850 g)

time ESTIMATE: 45 minutes overall

STORAGE NOTES: keeps for up to 3 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: moderate

INGREDIENT WEIGHT VOLUME SCALING PROCEDURE

Panko bread crumbs Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated	50 g 50 g	7/s cup 3A cup	15% 15%	® Preheat the oven to 175 °C/350°F. © Toss together, spread evenly on a baking sheet, and toast until the cheese and bread crumbs turn golden, aboutlO minutes. Reserve the crumbs for use in step 12.
Italian eggplant, peeled and sliced 6 mm/Vi in thick	330 g	12 slices (from 1 eggplant)	100%	© Arrange the eggplant slices in a single layer on a microwave-safe plate lined with papertowels, sprinkle with the salt, and cover with additional papertowels.
Salt	2g	'A tsp	0.6%	© Microwave at 1,100 W for 3 minutes. Work in batches if necessary.
Olive oil	50 g	55 mL/VS cup	15%	© Brush the eggplant slices with olive oil on both sides, place them on a clean plate, and seal them with microwave-safe plastic wrap. © Microwave at 1,100 W until fully tender, about 4 minutes.
Marinara sauce see page 32	400 g	tyn cups	121%	© Spread a generous spoonful of marinara sauce across the bottom of a microwave-safe dish that is 12.7 cm/5 in square.
Full-fat ricotta cheese	150 g	Ve cup	45%	© Lay four slices ofthe cooked eggplant over the sauce.
Fresh mozzarella, thinly sliced	150 g	I cup	45%	© Top the eggplant with one third of the basil and cheeses. Lightly salt if desired.
Basil leaves, torn Salt	10g to taste	1/2 cup	3%	® Top with another generous spoonful of marinara sauce. © Repeat steps 8-10 twice more, and top with remaining marinara sauce. © Sprinkle the toasted bread and cheese crumbs overthe assembled dish. @ Microwave at 1,100 W until hot in the center and bubbly on the sides, 5-6 minutes. Serve immediately.

1

12

Preheat the oven to 175°C/350°F.

Toss the bread crumbs and cheese together, spread them on a baking sheet, and toast them until they turn golden, about 10 minutes. Set the cheesy bread crumbs aside for use in step 12.

Arrange the slices of eggplant in a single layer on a microwave-safe plate lined with papertowels. Sprinkle them with the salt, and then coverthem with additional papertowels.

Microwave the eggplant at 1,100 Wfor3 minutes; add more time if your oven is less powerful than this. The papertowels absorb steam, so the eggplant doesn't get soggy. Work in batches if necessary; do not stack slices on top of one another.

Brush the cooked slices with olive oil on both sides, place them on a clean microwave-safe plate, and seal them tightly with plastic wrap, which traps the steam produced during cooking. Use only plastic wrap specifically rated for microwaving.

Microwave the slices at 1,100 W until they are tender all the way through, about4 minutes. Ifthey are still slightly rubbery, cook for up to 2 minutes more.

TT Spread a generous spoonful of marinara sauce evenly across the ' bottom of a microwave-safe dish that is 12.7 cm/5 in square and

5 cm/2 in deep.

^ Arrange four slices of cooked eggplant on the sauce in a single layer.

Q Top the eggplant with one third ofthe ricotta, sliced mozzarella, and ^ basil. Add a little salt to taste, but it may already be quite salty. You can use scissors to snip the basil.

10 Spread another generous spoonful of marinara sauce overthe top.

1 “1 Repeat steps 8-10 two more times to build three layers. Spread any

* extra marinara sauce over the top.

Sprinkle the cheesy bread crumbs generously on top.

"I *3 Microwave again atl,100 W until the food is hot in the center and

■ bubbly on the sides, 5-6 minutes. The sauce may bubble over, so it's

a good idea to place a plate underneath the dish.SICHUAN BOKCHOY

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four servings (350 g/four heads ofbok choy)

10 minutes overall serve immediately easy

black bean and chili paste, Shaoxing wine, Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil (seepage 36)

This is such a practical and fast way to cook vegetables perfectly. Sealing the produce in a plastic bag captures steam to help the microwave do the cooking. If you can’t find black bean and chili paste, replace it with a combination of garlic black bean sauce and

sambal ulek, a salt-cured chili sauce (use a 2:1 ratio by weight). Alter­natively, use our Korean Wing Sauce (see page 116) or 100 g of our Pressure-Caramelized Peanut Sauce with some extra minced lemon- grass (see page 31) to obtain a different set of flavors.

Hoisin sauce	20 g	20 mL/4tsp	7%	© Combine in a pot, and bring to a simmer.
(Lee Kum Kee brand)				© Set aside to cool slightly.
Fermented black	15g	1 Tbsp	5%
bean and chili paste (Lee Kum Kee brand)
Shaoxing wine	8g	9 mL/2 tsp	2.6%
Soy sauce	5g	4 mL/% tsp	1.7%
Toasted-sesame oil	lg	1 mL/14 tsp	0.3%
Baby bok choy, cleaned and halved	300 g	4 medium heads	100%	© Place in azip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag, and seal it.
Water	50 g	50 mV/Vi cup	17%	@ Microwave it at 1,100 W for 2 minutes, and then let it rest for 2 minutes
				in the bag. © Remove the bok choy from the bag, shake off any excess water, and arrange it on plates.
Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil	10g	10 mL/2’/4 tsp	3.3%	© Season the bokchoy with the spicy sauce, chili oil, and salt. Serve it hot.
see page 36
Salt	to taste

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

"1 Combine the hoisin sauce, black bean and chili paste, wine, soy sauce,

* and sesame oil in a pot, and bring the mixture to a simmer.

2 Remove the sauce from the heat, and allow it to cool slightly.

O Place the cleaned bokchoy halves and the water in azip-top bag.

*-' Remove as much air as possible from the bag, and seal it. Alternatively, arrange the bok choy on a microwave-safe plate, add water, and then tightly coverthe plate with microwave-safe plastic wrap.

/\ Microwave the bok choy at 1,100 W for 2 minutes (or at full power for a

1 bit longer, if your oven is less powerful than this), and then let it rest for

2 minutes in the bag or plastic wrap. If you're using a microwave-safe dish, cooking may take an extra minute. Microwave ovens vary widely in their power output, so check the power of yours before cooking, and adjust the power level or cooking time accordingly.

C Remove the bok choy from the bag, shake off any excess waterfrom it, and arrange it on plates.

₆

Season the bok choy with the spicy sauce, chill oil, and salt. Serve it hot.4 medium heads '/4 cup

3Tbsp 4 tsp

4 mL/1 tsp

300 g 60 g

24 g

8g

4g

400 g	3 cups
15 g	1 Tbsp
55 g	’/3 cup
55 g	V* cup
15 g	II/2 Tbsp
to taste

VARIATIONS Bok Choy Medley

Baby bok choy, halved	300 g	4 medium heads
Pressure-Cooked Barley, warmed 60 g see page 78		4 Tbsp
Ibйrico ham, sliced paper thin	40 g	8 pieces
Cauliflower florets	32 g	8 florets
Romanesco cauliflower florets	32 g	8 florets
Brussels sprout leaves	12g	12-16 leaves
Spinach Butter, warm see variation on page 39	12g	1 Tbsp
Meyer lemon zest, grated	1g	1 tsp

Deep-fry both kinds of cauliflower florets in 175°C/350°F neutral frying

oil until golden, aboutlO minutes. Blanch the Brussels sprout leaves for 60 seconds in boiling water, and then immediately plunge them into an ice-water bath. Follow steps 3-5 on the previous page to cook the bok choy. Take apart the cooked bok choy leaves. Arrange the bok choy leaves, ham, barley, and vegetables artfully on plates. Drizzle the spinach butter overthe top, garnish with the lemon zest, and season with salt.

Autumn Flavors Bok Choy

Baby bok choy, halved

Broccoli-Gruyиre Puree see variation on page 76

Pickled Honeycrisp apple, finely diced

see page 48

Comtй cheese, grated Hazelnut oil

Follow steps 3-5 on the previous page to cook the bok choy. Spoon the warm broccoli puree onto the plate, and garnish with the pickled apple. Sprinkle the grated cheese and hazelnut oil over the top.

Microwaved Potato Salad Small fingerling potatoes Water

Red onion, minced Bacon Mayonnaise

see variation on page 25

Dijon mustard Salt

Place the potatoes and water in a zip-top bag, and microwave at 1,100 watts until tender, about 4 minutes. Allow to cool, and slice into coins

1 in thick. Combine with the onion, mayonnaise, and mustard. Season with salt to taste. Garnish with Pressure-Cooked Pickled Mustard Seeds (see page 43) and crispy bacon bits.

Best Bets for Cooking Vegetables in the Microwave Oven

All ofthe recipes in this chapter were tested by using a 1,100 watt micro- cut them, as well as on their density and water content. Drier vegetables

wave oven at full power, unless indicated otherwise. The time required to cook more evenly if you seal the vegetables in a bag or under m icrowave-

cook vegetables in a microwave depends on the thickness to which you safe plastic wrap on a plate with a little water.

Time

Technique Ingredients Preparation Procedure (min)

cooking root vegetables	beets, carrots, celery root, potatoes, turnips	whole	vacuum seal, or arrange on a plate and seal with microwave-safe plastic wrap; cook medium beets for 6 minutes, and rub off the skin	3-7
cooking leafy greens	bok choy, broccoli, cabbage	whole	place in a zip-top bag with 50 mL/T/i cup of water; alternatively, arrange in a microwave-safe dish with 2 mm/l/iii in of water, and cover with microwave-safe plastic wrap	2-5
cooking bulbs and fibrous vegetables	artichokes, cardoon, celery, fennel, leeks, onions	whole	vacuum seal	2-5

two servings (450 g) 15 minutes overall serve immediately easy

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY:

This recipe was adapted from Margaret Lu, the mother of Johnny Zhu, one of the development chefs at The Cooking Lab. Mrs. Lu originally made the dish with tilapia. Johnny adapted it to cod, but

you can substitute halibut fillets or small whole snapper, rockfish, trout, black sea bass, pomfret, or sole for the black cod. Fishes differ a bit in their densities, so you may need to adjust the cooking time.

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Black cod, skin on	450 g/1 lb	2 fillets	100%	® Place each fillet in a separate, microwave-safe zip-top bag, and then place each one, skin-side down, on a microwave-safe plate.
Scallion, white parts only, julienned	25 g	5-6 scallions	5.6%	© Combine, and mound half on top of each fillet in the bag. (D Pour half ofthe wine into each bag.
Ginger, peeled and cut into coins	10 g	2-3 coins	2.2%	© Microwave each fillet at 800 W until the fish becomes opaque and flakes easily, 3V4-5 minutes, and then remove it from the bag, and scrape off
Shaoxing wine	5g	5 mL/lV4 tsp	1%	the scallion and ginger. If your microwave oven is more powerful than 800 W, lowerthe power level accordingly.
Soy sauce	25 g	20 mL/4Va tsp	5.6%	© Combine, and pour half ofthe mixture evenly over each fish fillet.
Toasted-sesame oil	2 g	2 mL/3/iitsp	0.4%
Scallion, green parts only, finely julienned	10 g	Va cup	2.2%	© Garnish each cooked fillet.
Ginger, peeled and finelyjulienned	3g	1 Tbsp	0.7%
Peanut oil	50 g	55mL/3'/2Tbsp	11%	® Heat in asmall pan to190 “C/374 “F. ® Drizzle the hot peanut oil over the garnished fish. Serve immediately.

“I Place each fillet in a separate, microwave-safe zip-top bag, and then

* place each one, skin-side down, on a microwave-safe plate. The plate makes it easier to handle the fish.

O Combine the scallion whites and ginger coins, and mound them on

■“ each fillet in its bag.

^ Pour half of the Shaoxing wine into each bag and around the fish.

/\ Microwave each fillet at 800 W until the fish becomes opaque and

¹ flakes easily, 3’/2-5 minutes, and then remove it from its bag, and scrape off the scallion and ginger. Use caution: the bags contain very hot steam. If your microwave oven is more powerful than 800 W, lowerthe power level accordingly. Setthe power level of an 1,100 W oven, for example, to 75% or level 7.

C Combine the soy sauce and toasted-sesame oil, and pour half ofthe ^k-' mixture evenly over each ofthe two cooked fillets.

Garnish each fillet with the julienned gingerand scallion greens.

^ Heat the peanut oil in a small pan to 190°C/374°F.

O Drizzle one half ofthe hot peanut oil slowly and evenly over the top of each fillet. The oil should sizzle and pop as it releases the aromas ofthe scallions. Serve the fish immediately.

VARIATIONS

Microwaved Sea Bass, Tilapia, Halibut, or Sole

To make this recipe with other kinds offish, usethecookingtimes

given below.

Whole black sea bass (450 g): 6Vi minutes Whole tilapia (800 g): 6 minutes Halibut fillet (170 g): 2% minutes Dover sole fillet (170 g): V/i minutes

Aromatic Microwaved Cod

Fora more intensely aromatic dish, combine the Shaoxing wine with 10 g/4 tsp of minced gingerand 25 g/4 tsp of minced scallion, white parts only. Rub the mixture gently and evenly all over the surface of each fillet, and then place the fillets in bags as directed in step 1. Continue at step 3.310 g/about 32 strips

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE:

STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

5-25 hours overall, including 1 hour of preparation and 4-24 hours unattended

keeps for 5 days when stored in an airtight container

moderate

1 L whipping siphon and two cartridges of nitrous oxide (optional)

INGREDIENT

SCALING

Making beef jerky involves two time-consuming steps: marinating and drying, each of which can take a day or more when done the tra­ditional way. Modernist techniques can cut the time to just 5 hours. You can use a whipping siphon to pressure-marinate the beef, and then dry it in mere minutes in a microwave oven.

Jerky should be made of lean meat because beef fat quickly turns

WEIGHT VOLUME

rancid at room temperature. Flank steak is ideal, but any lean cut of red meat will do, including venison or lamb. We prefer thick jerky, but if you are using a tougher cut, such as a flatiron steak, cut the strips as thinly as possible. This recipe uses soy sauce and fish sauce to impart a mild Asian flavor; see below for spicy, smoky, and South African variations.

PROCEDURE

Beefflanksteak, trimmed 715 g/1.5 lb

100% ® Slice, againstthe grain, into strips that arelO cm/4 in long and

12 mm/Vi in thick.

Soy sauce	60 g	50 mL/3'/2Tbsp	8.3%	©
Asian fish sauce	30 g	25mL/l’/2Tbsp	4.2%	©
Sugar	40 g	3Tbsp	5.6%	©
Maple syrup (grade B)	15 g	1 Tbsp	2.1%
Worcestershire sauce	4g	3 mL/TЖtsp	0.6%
Black pepper	0.2 g	V» tsp	0.03%	©
Cayenne pepper	0.2 g	'/s tsp	0.03%	©

cartridges of nitrous oxide, and refrigerate it for4 hours. Alternatively, combine the meat and marinade in a zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag, seal it, and refrigerate it for 15-24 hours.

VARIATIONS

Spicyjerky

In step 2, add 4 g/2 tsp of red chili flakes to the marinade.

Smoky Jerky

In step 2, add 1.7 g/'/2 tsp of liquid hickory smoke to the marinade. Biltongjerky

In step 2, add 7.5 g/T/2 Tbsp of ground coriander to the marinade, and increase the quantity of black pepperto 7.5 g/V/2 Tbsp.

the pieces for proper air circulation.

© Cover with plastic wrap, and microwave at 500 Wfor2’/2 minutes.

© Let the strips restforl-2 minutes.

© Remove the plastic wrap, drain off the liquid, and blot the pieces dry. Flip and rotate the pieces to place the rarer parts facing up and near the outside ofthe plate.

© Microwave the strips, uncovered, at500 Wfor30 seconds. Blot and flip the pieces.

© Continue cooking in short bursts at 500 W, blotting any liquid that forms and rotating as needed until the pieces are dark brown and dry,

2- 3 minutes more.

© Transfer the cooked jerky to a clean plate, and cover it with plastic wrap.

© Repeat steps 7-12 with all ofthe remaining beef strips.

© Serve the jerky at room temperature.“I Slice the flank steak, cutting against the grain, into strips that are

10 cm/4 in long and 12 mm/!4 in thick. We like our jerky quite thick, but make the strips thinner if using a tougher cut, such as flatiron steak.

Combine the soy sauce, fish sauce, sugar, maple syrup, Worcestershire “ sauce, and peppers, and stir until dissolved to make a marinade.

Stirthe strips of meat into the marinade until they are well coated.

A Transfer the meat and marinade to al L siphon, charge the siphon with two cartridges of nitrous oxide, and refrigerate it for 4 hours.

5

6

7

5 9

The high pressure accelerates marination. Alternatively, combine the meat and marinade in a zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag, and seal it. Then refrigerate the sealed bag forl5-24 hours. Laythe bag flat, if possible, and flip it periodically so that the strips brine evenly.

Drain the marinade from the beef strips, and use papertowels to pat them dry.

Arrange as many ofthe beef strips as will fit on a microwave-safe plate while spacing them well apart. Proper drying requires air circulation, so don't crowd the strips; work in batches as needed.

Cover the plate with microwave-safe plastic wrap, and microwave at 500 Wfor2!/2 minutes to cookthe meat.

Let the strips rest for a minute or two. Cooking and resting the meat helps keep it tender and reduces the drying time.

Remove the plastic wrap, drain off the liquid, and blot the pieces dry with papertowels. Flip and rotate the pieces to place the rarer parts facing up and near the outside ofthe plate.10

11

12

13

14

Microwave the strips, uncovered, at 500 W for 30 seconds. Blot and flip the pieces.

Continue cooking in short bursts at 500 W, blotting any liquid that forms and rotating as needed until the pieces are dark brown and dry, 2-3 minutes more.

Transfer the cooked jerky to a clean plate, and cover it with plastic wrap. This helps to equalize the remaining moisture among the strips.

Repeat steps 7-12 as needed to cookthe remaining beef strips. Serve the jerky at room temperature.

1 6 5

DISHES FOR THE MICROWAVE

CRISPY BEEF STRANDS

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY:

80 g/2 cups

49V2 hours overall, including IV2 hours of preparation and 48 hours unattended

keeps for 5 days when stored in an airtight container

moderate

This recipe, which uses a cooking and drying technique very simi­lar to that used to make Microwaved Beef Jerky, produces delicate, crispy strands of fried beef. We use them in a Thai-inspired beef and shallot salad (see the next page), but you can also use them to garnish steak (see page 79), braised short ribs (see page 99), or any other meat dish that benefits from a crisp texture and an intense burst of umami flavor.

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME	SCALING	PROCEDURE
Beef flank steak, trimmed	O o		100%	© Slice with the grain into strips that are 10 cm/4 in long and 12 mm /'/2 in thick. Long, uncutthreads of beef make better strands.
Soy sauce	125 g	110 mL/'A cup	25%	© Combine, and stirto dissolve.
Asian fish sauce	85 g	70 mL/41/2 Tbsp	17%	© Stirthe meat and brine together to coat.
Sugar Salt	14g 5g	1 Tbsp V/a tsp	2.8% 1%	© Transfer to a zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag, and seal it. © Refrigeratefor48 hours. © Drain off the brine, and pat the beef strips dry with papertowels. © Place the strips of beef on a microwave-safe plate, leaving at least 2 cm/}4 in between the pieces for proper air circulation. © Microwave the strips, a few at a time, at 800 W for 3-5 minutes, flipping them every minute ortwo, and pattingthem dry. Cookthe strips until they become brown and dry; they should still be slightly flexible.
Neutral frying oil see page viii	as needed			© Fill a deep pot with oil to a depth of2.5 cm/1 in, and preheatthe oil to 180 “C/356 °F. ® Pull the strips of dried beef apart into long, very thin strands. © Fry the beef strands in the hot oil until dry and crispy, about 1 minute. © Drain on papertowels. @ Serve hot.

Safety tips for deep-frying: see page 4

CRISPY BEEF AND SHALLOT SALAD

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE:

STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four servings (200 g/3 cups)

20 minutes overall

serve immediately; fried shallots keep for up to 5 days in an airtight container moderate

Crispy Beef Strands (see the previous page); Thai Sweet; Sour, and Savory Glaze (seepage 33)

We developed this salad as a garnish to our recipe in Modernist Cuisine for short ribs cooked sous vide. It was inspired by the Austra­lian chef David Thompson. The crispy beef strands are delicious and set up a wonderful contrast with the Asian flavors of the salad.

To make the salad more substantial, try adding shredded pineapple and green papaya (available at Asian or Latin American markets), or julienned jicama and cucumber. For a Western version, try baby arugula, shredded fennel, and red onion.

INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME		SCALING	PROCEDURE
Neutral frying oil	as needed				© Preheat 1 cm/3/s in of frying oil to 170 °C/338 °F in a deep-sided skillet.
see page vim Shallot, sliced 1 mm/Vo in thick	50 g	'/2 cup		63%	© Deep-fry until dry and golden, about 2 minutes. © Drain on papertowels.
Salt	to taste				© Season the fried shallots, and set them aside.
Crispy Beef Strands	80 g	2 cups		100%	© Toss together with the fried shallots.
see the previous page
Cilantro stems, cut to	3g	1 Tbsp		3.8%
1 cm/3/8 in lengths
Scallion, finely julienned	2g	1 Tbsp		2.5%
Small cilantro leaves	2g	1 Tbsp		2.5%
Small mint leaves	2 g	ITbsp		2.5%
Small Thai basil leaves	2 g	1 Tbsp		2.5%
Limezest,finelyjulienned 1.5 g			Vh Tbsp	1.8%
Thai chili, seeded and	'g	1-2 chilies		1.3%
sliced paperthin
Thai Sweet, Sour, and	100 g	'/i cup		125%	© Warm the glaze, and drizzle it into the salad.
Savory Glaze
see page 33
Lime juice	to taste				© Season the salad, and serve it immediately.
Salt	to taste

Safety tips for deep-frying: see page 4

VARIATION: Crispy Shallots

After step 4, store the crispy, salted shallots in an airtight container. Use them on steaks, in salads, or in Savory Cheese Pie (see variation on page 183).about 50 leaves 15 minutes overall

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY:

best served immediately, but keeps for 1 day when stored in an airtight container easy

INGREDIENT

The microwave oven is the secret to making an impressive herb gar­nish quickly, without the mess of frying in oil. After microwaving, the Italian parsley remains a brilliant emerald green, the texture becomes intriguingly crisp, and the leaves lie perfectly flat. We find that sage,

WEIGHT VOLUME

basil, dill, carrot tops, baby spinach, and lovage work equally well. Verbena and lemon balm, however, tend to brown and wilt too quickly. Inexpensive PVC-based plastic wrap is not recommended; use plastic specifically designed for use in microwave ovens.

PROCEDURE

Neutral-tasting oil or cooking spray	as needed	© Stretch a piece of microwave-safe plastic wrap taut over a microwave- safe plate. The plastic should seal tightly to the edge ofthe plate. © Brush the plastic wrap with a thin film of oil, or coat it with cooking spray.
Italian parsley	about 50 1/2Cup leaves	© Lay the parsley leaves on the prepared plastic wrap, leaving about 2 cm/% in between the leaves. Work in batches as needed. © Brush the tops ofthe leaves lightly with oil, or use cooking spray or your fingers to dab on the oil. © Microwave at 800 W until crisp, about 4 minutes. Check the leaves every 90 seconds; do not let them burn.
Salt	to taste	© Transfer the fried leaves to a tray lined with papertowels, and season them. © Repeat with the remaining oil and parsley leaves. Change the plastic wrap on every other batch to prevent overheating. © Serve the fried herbs at room temperature.

(adapted from Heston Blumenthal)

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

Stretch a piece of microwave-safe plastic wrap taut over a microwave- safe plate. The plastic should seal tightly to the edge ofthe plate.

Brush the plastic wrap with a thin film of oil, or coat it with cooking spray.

Lay the parsley leaves on the prepared plastic wrap. Space the leaves about2 cm/³/4 in apart. Work in batches as needed.

Brush the tops ofthe leaves lightly with oil, or use cooking spray or your fingers to dab on the oil.

Microwave at 800 W until crisp, about 4 minutes. Check the leaves every 90 seconds to make certain that they don't burn.

Transferthe crisp, fried parsley leaves to a tray lined with papertowels, and season them.

Repeat with the remaining oil and parsley leaves. Change the plastic wrap on every other batch to keep it from overheating.

Serve the fried herbs at room temperature.INSTANT CHOCOLATE SPONGE

YIELD:

TIME ESTIMATE:

STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

six to eight servings (650 g)

40 minutes overall, including 20 minutes unattended

batter keeps for 24 hours when refrigerated

easy

1 L whipping siphon, three cartridges of nitrous oxide, six to eight heavy-duty paper cups, Wondra, xanthan gum (optional)

With a whipping sipho:	n, you can prepare and cook a		fluffy, warm		If heavy-duty paper cups are not available, use pairs of stacked
cake in just minutes. It will have a rough, rustic texture unlike a con­						regular cups. Never use waxed cups; they will melt. The xanthan
ventional cake—more	like a coarse,	steamed sponge.		Serve it alone		gum in this recipe helps bind the batter so that it stays lighter when
or with fruit, ice cream	, or Sous Vide Lemon Curd (see page 174).				it sets. But the recipe works fine without it.
INGREDIENT	WEIGHT	VOLUME		SCALING		PROCEDURE
Whole milk	150 g	150 mL/J/3 cup		120%		® Cut four slits spaced equally around the bottom edge of a heavy-duty
Semisweet chocolate,	115g	3A cup		92%		paper cup; repeat for the remaining five to seven cups.
chopped						© Combine the milk, chocolate, and butter in a microwave-safe bowl,
Unsalted butter, cubed	75 g	3/s cup		60%		and microwave at 1,100 W until melted, about 1 minute.
						© Whisk until smooth. Cool slightly.
Eggs, blended	100g	V2 cup/		80%		© Whisk into the cooled chocolate mixture.
		about 2 eggs
Wondra	125 g	1 cup		100%		© Sift together.
Powdered sugar	125 g	Vfy cups		100%		© Fold athird ofthe chocolate mixture into the dry ingredients, and then
Dutch-processed	6g	2 tsp		4.8%		stir in the remainder to form a smooth batter.
cocoa powder						© Pour the batter into a 1 L siphon, and charge it with three cartridges
Salt	5-5 g	V/2 tsp		4.4%		of nitrous oxide.
Baking soda	0.6 g	Vs tsp		0.48%		© Allow the siphon to sit at room temperature for 20 minutes.
Xanthan gum	0.3 g			0.24%
(Bob's Red Mill brand),
optional
Cookingspray	as needed					© Spray the inside of each paper cup with cookingspray, wiping away
						any excess oil.
						© Dispense enough batter to fill a quarter of one paper cup.
						© Microwave the cake at 1,100 W for 50 seconds to cook through.
						© Let the cake rest for a few seconds, and then upend it onto a plate.
						© Repeat steps 10-12 with the remaining batter and cups. Serve warm.

Raspberry Macad	amia	Nut Sponge
Raspberryjuice	150 g	150 mL/J/j cup
Macadamia butter	115 g	3/b cup
Eggs, beaten	100 g	2 eggs
Macadamia oil	76 g	80 ml/3/a cup
Egg white, beaten	40 g	3 Tbsp
Powdered sugar	187 g	ls/8 cups
Wondra	125 g	1 cup
Freeze-Dried	15 g	2 Tbsp
Raspberry Powder
see pageT82
Salt	9g	2'A tsp
Powdered milk	5g	2 tsp
Bakingsoda	0.6g	Vs tsp

VARIATIONS

In each of the variations below, first follow step 1 to prepare the cups. Then whisk together the first group of ingredients listed for the variation. Next, sift together the dry ingredients listed in the second group. Then continue with steps 6-13.

Sesame Sponge

Peanut Butter Sponge

Whole milk	150 g	150 mL/2/3 cup	Whole milk	150 g	150mL/2/3Cup
Natural peanut	115 g	V4 cup	Tahini	115 g	Vi cup
butter, smooth			Eggs, beaten	100 g	2 eggs
Eggs, beaten	100 g	2 eggs	Toasted-sesame oil	50 g	55 mL/Vi cup
Hazelnut oil	76 g	80 rnL/3/a cup	Powdered sugar	187 g	\s/s cups
Powdered sugar	187g	15/B cups	Wondra	125 g	1 cup
Wondra	125 g	1 cup	Salt	9g	2Vt tsp
Salt	9g	2V4 tsp	Bakingsoda	0.6 g	V« tsp

Baking soda

0.6 g Va tspMAKING CUSTARD

crиme anglaise	egg yolks and heat	light, pourable	sauce for fruit salads or warm cakes; base for ice cream or milk shakes	cook sous vide for a smoother texture	176
crиme brыlйe, pot de crиme	egg yolks and heat	very rich, smooth	stand-alone, single­portion desserts	avoid overcooking, weeping, or bubbling by cooking in a	172
flan	whole eggs and heat	bouncy, brittle		water bath; vary the ratio of egg yolk to white to explore a range of appealing textures
gelato	nut milk, dairy orthicken- inggum, and cold	rich, silky	ice-cream sandwiches; composed desserts	fat content should be 30%-50%; the finer the ice crystals, the better; use hydrocolloid thick­eners to make vegan gelato	177
panna cotta	dairy, gelatin or agar, and heat	firm, springy, and very smooth; can be rubbery	molded and cut desserts	firms overtime when made with gelatin; use agar to make a vegetarian version	175
pastry cream	egg yolks and heat	pudding-like	pie fillings; napoleons; cream puff fillings; puddings	make as a fluid gel to avoid using starch as a thickener; blend the yolks with liquid while still warm	180
posset	dairy, acid, and heat	very rich, dense	sweet accompaniment to acidic fruits and sauces	measure weights and tempera­tures accurately for consistent results	173
sabayon	egg yolks and heat	foamy, airy	pie topping; in savory form, an accompaniment to steamed vegetables	use a whipping siphon to foam the custard instantly	176

Thickening or gelling

Recipe process Texture Application or garnish Note Seepage

The term "custard" spans so many possible ingredients and techniques that it is most useful to think of custard as simply a particular texture and mouthfeel. Custards have been made for centuries by lightly cooking a blend of eggs and heavy cream, but Modernist chefs have invented myriad new ways to make them. These techniques offer greater consistency and more

control overthe texture, which can range from airy and fluid to dense and firm. Many ofthe lighter varieties of custard can be aerated in a whipping siphon into smooth, creamy foams. The one constant among custards is the use of plenty of fat, which not only provides that distinctive mouthfeel but also makes custard an excellent carrier of fat-soluble flavors and aromas.Many of our dessert recipes use a flavored liquid. Often the dominant flavor is infused into cream or milk. You can use the information below to create variations of many ofthe recipes on pages 172-176. You may need to adjust the yield to fit the recipe you are adapting.