Secrets of Growing Tasty Cucumbers

One of the joys of the summer garden is slicing up a cucumber just plucked off the vine and savoring that first crisp, cool bite. Well, it's a joy when the cucumber tastes the way it should: with that sweet, refreshing flavor that alludes to a clear mountain spring. But sometimes, for no apparent reason, one will taste bitter. How does that happen, and more important, what can you do about it? If you follow these tips to minimize a cucumber's greatest enemy—stress—you'll prevent bitterness, as well as most of the other problems that may have marred your cuke harvest in the past, such as pests and diseases. And I promise that this year you'll enjoy the coolest, tastiest cucumbers that no money can buy.

Some cukes start out bitter, but some become bitter because of conditions in their environment- many of which you can control. (For an explanation of what makes cucumbers bitter, see "The Bitter Truth," below.) Plants that are stressed are more likely to become bitter; how bitter depends on the severity of the stress. Stress in a plant is most often caused by insufficient and uneven moisture, but temperature extremes and poor nutrition can also play a part. You can minimize stress and maximize flavor if you:

1) Keep them hydrated

2) Regulate the temperature

3) Give them sunlight and good soil

4) Fertilize

5) Banish weeds. 

Cover up. Row covers, hot caps (or plastic milk cartons with the caps removed), and plastic tunnels are great for getting plants off to an early start. And row covers not only help plants grow faster and flower sooner, they also protect plants from pest insects. Just be sure to remove any covering once plants start to flower.

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Planting Tips

No matter which method you use to plant your fruit trees, berry bushes, or vines, water them well after planting. Spread a 2- to 3-inch-deep layer of mulch over the soil around the plant; this helps the soil maintain moisture longer so you have to water less. It also helps to control weed growth.

You may need to stake newly planted fruit trees, especially if they are bare-root or if they're in a windy location and want to tip over. Support them only for the first year or two; remove the stakes after that so your trees can develop a sturdy trunk and root system.

One of the simplest ways to support a young tree is to use a single stake about as tall as the tree. Drive the stake in the ground about 18 inches deep and about 6 inches away from the edge of the planting hole. Use heavy wires wrapped by a section of old garden hose and tie the tree to the stake using a figure-8 pattern. (The hose prevents the wire from grinding against the bark.)

No matter what trees, shrubs, or vines you're growing, it's a good idea to prune out any dead or diseased branches and stems. This helps the plant look better and can prevent disease from spreading. It's best to prune most fruit trees in late fall, winter, or early spring when they're dormant and leafless. Avoid pruning them in early fall -- otherwise you make the trees more susceptible to winter injury. Currants and gooseberries also should be pruned in the dormant season, removing approximately one-third of their oldest stems. Most fruits require consistent moisture to produce well. The exact amount to give them depends on soil type, weather conditions, and what kinds of fruits you're growing. For example, you'll need to water plants in sandy soils more often than those in clay. And plants use more water during hot, windy conditions with low humidity than if the weather is cool, humid, and cloudy.

Regardless, apply enough water to moisten the root zone at least 6 inches deep. Soaker hoses and drip irrigation systems are two efficient ways to give your plants the water they need. These methods reduce water use (by applying it just to the root zone there's little lost to evaporation) and help prevent disease by keeping the foliage dry.

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