- •Complex of the lectures
- •Cc saprgpli 3303– sapr Grafis of products of light industry
- •Basic rules for working with Grafis
- •1.1 Important rules for work with Grafis
- •1.2 Starting Grafis
- •1.3 Calling basic blocks
- •1.4 Quit Grafis
- •1.5 Work with measurement charts
- •2.1 Basic blocks and size table
- •2.2 Grading
- •2.3 Adjust interactive construction
- •2.4 Alter the screen display
- •Grading. Screen work
- •2.5 Extracting pieces
- •2.6 Stack
- •2.7 Moving parts
- •Create and alter perimeter
- •3.1The Grafis data structure
- •3.2 The construction record
- •Indication of record steps, test run
- •3.3 Geometrical basics
- •3 .4 Deleting objects
- •3 .5 Parallels
- •3.6 Corners
- •Easy line functions
- •4.1 Linking lines
- •4.2 Raster
- •4.3 Lengthening and shortening lines
- •4.4 Cut and separate lines
- •Point, line and direction construction.
- •5.4 Line with direction constructions
- •5.5 Circle arcs
- •5.6 Rectangles
- •Measurements and annotation.
- •6.1The measure menu
- •6 .2 Finished measurements
- •6.3 Set and edit text
- •6.4 Set symbols
- •6.5 Attributes
- •6.5 Hatching
- •Interacrtive constructions. Pattern output.
- •7.1 Adjust interactive constructions
- •7.2 Pattern output.
- •Darts and pleats.
- •8.1 Relocate darts
- •8.2 Shorten dart
- •8.3 Hoods on darts and pleats
- •8.4 Pinch with new dart
- •8.5 Spread for pleats, pivot open and close
- •Curve construction and manipulation.
- •9.1 Curve menu
- •9.2 Construction of curves
- •Transformation.
- •1 0.1 The transformation menu
- •10.2 Insert with transformation
- •The construction parameter X value.
- •11.1 The X values
- •11.2 The X value reference
- •The construction parameters g and z values.
- •12.1 The g values
- •12.2 The z values
- •Part organization.
- •13.1 Part organization
- •13.2 Hereditary automatic
- •13.3 Modifying mother parts
- •X values
- •Pattern making software for the fashion industry
- •14.1 Classifiсаtion of Categories of The Fashion Design cad/cam Software
- •14. 2 Main features of popular softwares
- •14. 3 The Competitive Advantages of cad-plm Integration
- •1) Minimize Errors
- •2) Improve Collaboration
- •3) Generate Accurate Costing Estimates
- •4) Uphold Quality
14.1 Classifiсаtion of Categories of The Fashion Design cad/cam Software
Computer Aided Design is used at various stages in the apparel and textile industry. The fashion design CAD/CAM software can be broadly classified into following categories, each relating to a different design and manufacturing stage.
Categories and manufacturing stages are:
Designing/ Range Planning before the start of any fashion season, all apparel manufacturers plan the range of garments which they are setting up to manufacture. Most of the designing and range planning is still done by the buyer or the owners of the brand because they are closest to their actual clients; it is easier for them to understand the specific needs of their target market.
Prototyping/ Sampling once the designs have been finalized, a prototype or sample has to be made, because the scalability of the end product (garment) very much depends on the fit of the garment. In a study conducted by an independent research agency, which monitored and observed the reasons of dissatisfaction or returns of garments sold - fitting problems topped the dissatisfaction list.
Considering the importance of a good fit, it becomes imperative for a manufacturer or retailer to achieve the best fits possible. Considering the complexity involved with different fabrics and silhouettes, a CAD system takes away much of the pain from prototyping thus decreasing the time to market.
Mass Production comes with its own challenges. Unlike most other products, apparel manufacturing, even today very much depends on people especially when it comes to tailoring or assembling. A mistake anywhere down the line in the prototyping or cutting process becomes very difficult and often impossible to rectify.
This is where a CAD system comes in, to deskill some of the processes involved in mass manufacturing, namely the preproduction processes so that perfectly cut parts are fed to the operators. Additionally, the fabric saved in bulk cutting while using a CAD system is enormous.
Retailing A 3D solution allows 3D files to be uploaded on to website for clients to choose from. 3D files can be opened and viewed in any MS office application or Internet explorer.
14. 2 Main features of popular softwares
The computer can make the design from the scratch, using a tablet and stylus, with colour and texture. Software packages or programme for fashion designers satisfy a particular need such as apparel designing, pattern making/grading, fashion illustration and accessories designing. Some software programmes are made especially for some particular computers such as the Mackintosh. Some examples of modern computer software for the fashion industry are: Gerber, Grafis, Lectra polygon, CAD Fashion, Optitex, Investronica, Design concept 3D, Assyst Bullmer.
These softwares can be used in these aspects of Fashion Design:
• Clothing Technology - Pattern making and marker making.
• Textile Technology - Fabric desig n, motifs and logos.
• Fashion Design - Drawing of figures, garments and garment features.
The universally accepted computer software in fashion and graphics industries are:
• Graphics (drawing) package – Adobe Illustrator, CorelDraw or Freehand and AutoCAD
• Image editing programme – Adobe Photoshop.
So, special software programs can assist with Pattern Design, Markers, Grading, Nesting software etc.
Gerber Technology: Gerber Technology provides an extensive line of integrated computer hardware and software systems to the sewn-goods and flexible goods industries. These systems significantly improve the efficiency of information management, product and pattern design, grading and marker making/nesting, material spreading and cutting processes. The company offers automation solutions to a variety of industries including apparel, transportation, furniture, composites and industrial fabrics. Gerber Technology's world headquarters is located in Tolland, Connecticut, U.S.A. with regional offices, agents and distributors located in more than 110 countries worldwide. Established in 1968, Gerber Technology is one of four divisions of Gerber Scientific, Inc. (www.gerberscientific.com) of South Windsor, Connecticut.
GRAFIS (Germany) is a software for pattern construction, grading and layplanning running on standard Personal Computers under Windows95 and above. It contains an extensive range of functions for pattern cutting and modification and is available at a very competitive price. Therefore, GRAFIS is in use in industry as well as in trade and education.
Pattern Making Software
CAD Software
Investronica: INVESTRONICA SISTEMAS is a Spanish company created in 1980, specializing in the development of CAD design tools (Computer Assisted Design), CAM systems (Computer Assisted Manufacturing) and CIM projects (Computer Integrated Manufacturing) for the apparel and upholstery industries, as well as for others such as automobile, aeronautics, etc.
Lectra: Lectra is a world leader in the design, manufacturing and distribution of software and hardware dedicated to the major industrial users of textiles, leather and other soft materials, supplying a comprehensive range of associated services for the development of complete solutions, from product design to manufacture to retailing. Lectra, a leading technology provider to the fashion industry offers a wide range of software, automated cutting systems and high value-added services covering the entire value chain, from design through manufacturing to retailing. Lectra Fashion PLM (Product Lifecycle Management), specifically designed for fashion companies, integrates process optimization with collections lifecycle management and includes modules for line planning, creative collection development, product data management, product engineering, and workflow management. Lectra Kaledo Collection, which shares a common database platform within PLM, encourages artistic creativity while structuring the collection creation process and facilitating the exchange of information internal and external to the design environment. Lectra Kaledo Textile is a suite of software for the textile designing processes of Print, Knit and Weave that further facilitates the exchange of information internal and external to the design environment. Lectra serves over 20,000 customers in more than 100 countries.
Pattern Making Software
PLM Software (Fashion PLM)
Textile Design Software
Fashion Technology
OptiTex USA Inc. (formerly known as Scanvec Garment Systems): specializes in the development of innovative, easy-to-operate, CAD/CAM solutions for sewn products and other related industries. Their Microsoft Windows' based software packages for digitizing, pattern engineering, grading, marking, and advanced automatic nesting are specifically designed to meet the needs of today's manufacturers of industrial fabrics, apparel, upholstery, transportation, composites, home furnishings, and other sewn products.