- •Table of Contents
- •K9 search and rescue
- •Introduction
- •Disclaimer
- •Introduction
- •Buried Deep Under Debris
- •Deployment
- •Team Building
- •Red Cross Dogs
- •Bringsel Technique
- •The History of Search and Rescue Dogs
- •Rescue Dogs in World War II
- •Irma and Psyche
- •Dogs of Exceptional Merit
- •“Knock and Call” Search Method
- •Success in Romania
- •Saving Lives, Recovering Bodies
- •Training the Natural Way
- •The Origins of Our Method
- •New Insights
- •Mechanical Training
- •Is Barking the Optimal Alert?
- •Looking for Solutions
- •What Is a Search and Rescue Dog?
- •Using the Hunting Drive
- •No Aggression
- •The Hunting Drive Complex
- •Aspects of the Hunting Drive Complex
- •Hunting Drive
- •Prey Drive
- •Play Drive
- •Pack Drive
- •Prey Sharing
- •Motion and Occupation Drives
- •The Six Phases of the Dog’s Search
- •Alerts with Body Language
- •Alerts with Barking
- •Barking to the Handler
- •The Replacement Prey
- •An Ideal Way to Use the Drives
- •Search Passion
- •Conditioning
- •The Right Drives
- •A Full Partner
- •Training in Three Steps
- •Young Dog Training
- •Adult Dog Training
- •The Learning Process
- •1. Stimulating Interest in the Sock Toy
- •2. Connecting the Sock Toy with Human Scent
- •3. Linking the Search Field and Human to the Sock Toy
- •Individually Adapted Training
- •Stimulating Interest in the Sock Toy
- •Things That Move Are Prey
- •Search and Prey Playing
- •Developing the Search Passion
- •Misunderstandings in Training
- •Interfering with Play
- •Prey Sharing
- •Introducing a Verbal Command
- •Introducing Rubble Walks
- •Let the Dog Set the Pace
- •Connecting the Sock Toy with Human Scent
- •Wilderness Search
- •Disaster Search
- •Reward at the Right Moment
- •Avoid Frustrations
- •Smuggling the Replacement Prey
- •Linking the Search Field and a Human to the Sock Toy
- •Leading the Hunt
- •Releasing to Hunt
- •Handling
- •Frustration
- •Direction-Showing Alerts
- •Importance of Training Helpers
- •Rubble Experience
- •Specially Built Training Centers
- •Disaster Villages
- •Fresh Rubble
- •Training Essentials
- •Searching Without Prey
- •Wilderness Search
- •Search Methods
- •Searching Along a Road
- •Corridor Searching
- •Sector Searching
- •Searching a Slope or Mountain
- •Missing Persons
- •Types of Alerts
- •Barking
- •Bringsel
- •Training the Barking Alert
- •Training the Bringsel Alert
- •Step 10
- •Step 11
- •Step 12
- •Troubleshooting Bringsel Training
- •Training the Recall Alert
- •Training Ranging
- •Step 10
- •Intensive
- •Work Without Stress
- •Best Results
- •Their Secret
- •Rubble Search
- •Trapped People
- •Types of Alert
- •Barking
- •Bringsel
- •Behavior and Postures
- •Training Rubble Search
- •Step 10
- •Step 11
- •Step 12
- •Step 13
- •Behavioristic Approach
- •Intelligence
- •Knock signals
- •Trapped for Nine Days
- •Austrian Army
- •Maternity clinic
- •Mother Teresa
- •Disaster Deployment Tactics
- •Dangers and Security
- •Signs of a Collapse
- •Call Out
- •The Packed Backpack
- •Preparing for a Mission Abroad
- •Parasites
- •Dehydration in Heat and Cold
- •Ten Basic Rules
- •The Five Phases Method
- •Phase 1: Survey
- •Information for Deployment
- •Phase 2: Hasty Search
- •Phase 3: Comb Out
- •Phase 4: Alerts
- •Alerts for Dead People
- •Double-checking Alerts
- •Phase 5: Salvage and Search Again
- •Dangers and Safety Signaling
- •Life-Saving Treatments
- •Search Again
- •Marking Box
- •Panic and Chaos
- •Practiced and Prepared
- •In the Search Area
- •Showing Directions
- •Family Tragedy
- •Fantastic Results
- •The Solid Wall
- •A Child’s Foot
- •New Opening
- •Over the Limits
- •Heavily Mutilated Bodies
- •Grandma and Child
- •Our Search Winds Down
- •Building Damage Typology
- •Elements of Damage
- •Tooth Gap
- •Damage Crater
- •Doll’s House
- •Swallow’s Nest
- •Half Room
- •Spilled Room
- •With Layers Pressed Room
- •Chipped Room
- •Barricaded Room
- •Slide Surface
- •Debris Cone
- •Fringe Debris a
- •Fringe Debris b
- •Mourning Process
- •Mass Graves
- •Avalanche Search
- •Dangers
- •Dog Bivouac
- •The Training Hole
- •Safety in the Hole
- •Dog Training
- •Avalanche Probe
- •Use of the Probe
- •Avalanche Transceiver
- •Hasty Search
- •Fine Search
- •Avalanche Deployment Tactics
- •Comrade Help
- •Digging and Locating the Victim
- •Organized Rescue Operation
- •Base Camp Safety
- •Organization
- •Primary Search Area
- •Freshly Fallen Snow
- •Helicopter
- •The Bulldozer
- •Ten Feet Deep
- •The Backpack
- •A Serious Task
- •With Faultless Precision
- •Mutual Confidence
- •Which Dogs Can Become sar Dogs?
- •Best Breeds
- •Requirements
- •Who Can Become a Handler?
- •Teamwork
- •Reading the Dog
- •Mission Readiness Test
- •Hard Work
- •International Rescue Dog Tests
- •More Than Sports
- •Testing Structure
- •Mission Readiness Test—Rubble
- •Mission Readiness Test—Area
- •2 Training the Natural Way
- •3 The Hunting Drive Complex
- •8 Wilderness Search
- •14 International Rescue Dog Tests
The Training Hole
Before digging a snow cave to hide in for training, first check the spot you plan to dig with an avalanche probe (a long, thin, metal stick). Then you know the thickness of the surface of snow on that spot. Take care to find a layer of snow at least two yards (2 m) thick in which to dig a hole. Start by digging vertically to clear the part of the snow in front of the future entrance all the way down to the ground. This will make it easier to dispose of the snow from the hole. Dig the entrance as straight as possible: around twenty inches (50 cm) in diameter and a yard (1 m) in length. Now it’s time to start digging the hole proper. To ensure it is solid enough, clear the snow by working in an arc. The ideal hole is shaped like an igloo on the inside.
Figure 12.4 The hole should be dug where the snow is at least two yards (2 m) thick and where there are no large rocks inside the snow.
Figure 12.5 Make a twenty by thirty-six inch (50 cm x 100 cm) cylindrical entrance. Then dig an arched cavity measuring about thirty-six inches (1 m) in diameter and thirty inches (75 cm) high.
The hole should have a lot of headroom—enough for a helper to sit up, because lying down will lower the body temperature. The helper should feel comfortable. The dog must also be able to enter and turn around in the hole. The helper sits on one or more insulation mats. No part of the helper’s body should be in direct contact with the snow wall. If there’s enough room in the cave, you can also make a little niche for a candle. This gives the helper a bit of light and warmth.
Figure 12.6 The snow from the entrance and hole should be cleared in an arc to ensure the hiding place is solid enough.
Safety in the Hole
Take good care of your helpers. People with a phobia or illness should never serve as a helper in the hole. A panic attack can be dangerous, not only for them, but also for everyone present. There should always be two people with shovels on the surface ready to clear the entrance to the hole immediately in emergencies.
Outside the hole there is also a person with a working avalanche beacon that controls the probe put in the hole, by which a helper inside the cave can give signals to the outside. In the cave the helper has a transmitting avalanche beacon under his or her clothes, a walkie-talkie, and the sock toys of the different dogs.
It is remarkable that someone in a snow cave, just as in the rubble, can hear everything from outside, but someone outside can barely hear a helper calling. Therefore, after each searching dog or its handler has opened the hole, go to the entrance of the hole and ask how the helper is doing.
Figure 12.7 Always maintain contact with the helper at the entrance of the hole, listening carefully to his or her responses.
Getting Enough Oxygen
People taking part in avalanche dog training for the first time are often frightened about getting into the hole. They have an idea it could easily collapse, suffocating them. These concerns are completely unfounded. First and foremost, the snow layer where the hole is dug must always be two yards (2 m) thick. Second, the roof of the hole should be arched. Before it is put into use, test the hole by walking on top of it.
There will always be enough oxygen in the hole. The snow walls release a lot of oxygen. After a while, a layer of ice might form on the inside wall of the hole from the helper breathing or because of the candle; if this happens, prick some holes in the wall to be sure there is enough oxygen available. Helpers can sit in such a hole for a few hours without any problem.
