- •I. Introduction
- •II. Quick Guide
- •III. Guitar Setup
- •IV. Pod Setup
- •V. Amp/Distortion Tone
- •VI. Cabs and Mics
- •X. Faq and Links
- •XI. Wish List
- •XII. Effects
- •XIII. Glossary
- •I. Introduction
- •VIII. Tips and Pitfalls
- •IX. Troubleshooting Guide
- •I. Frequency Response
- •XIII. Change Log Appendix a – Line 6 Effect Processing Diagrams Appendix b - Line 6 Effect Processing Table
- •I. Introduction
- •Section Overview
- •II. Quick Guide
- •I. Top Ten Tweaks
- •A. Quirks
- •Input Settings Global/Patch Option
- •Volume Knob/Ch. Vol. Functionality
- •Input 2
- •B. Patch-building Tips
- •C. High-Gain Amp Roundup
- •D. Cabs/Mics Roundup
- •F. Distortion Effects Roundup
- •G. Gain Staging
- •H. Eq Effects Roundup
- •I. Top Ten Tweaks
- •J. Killing Fizz
- •K. Mids for Metal
- •L. Dual Cab
- •M. Noise Gate Usage
- •P. Output Modes
- •Q. Input Settings
- •III. Guitar Setup
- •A. New Strings
- •B. String Gauge
- •C. Action
- •D. Fret Buzz
- •E. Intonation
- •F. Pickups
- •I. Single-Coil vs. Humbuckers
- •II. Pickup Position
- •III. Signal-to-Noise Ratio
- •IV. Frequency Response
- •V. Actives vs. Passives
- •VI. All about Blackouts
- •VII. Pickup Height on Passives
- •VIII. Pickup Height on Actives
- •IX. Pickup Suggestions
- •G. Bridge
- •I. Body/Fret board/Tuners/Neck-through/etc.
- •IV. Pod Setup
- •I. Simple Guide for Settings
- •II. Where Confusion Sets In
- •III. Global eq
- •A. Understanding Output Modes
- •I. Simple Guide for Settings
- •II. Where Confusion Sets In
- •III. Global eq
- •IV. Live-Voiced Cabs
- •V. Cab/Mic Simulation
- •VI. Bass Boost
- •VII. Output Mode Feature Chart
- •B. Internal Signal Routing
- •C. Running Direct (pa/board/computer or daw/monitors/headphones)
- •I. Simple method (no real amp)
- •II. Using a real amp as a pre-amp
- •D. Running to an amp ("live")
- •I. Amp without effects loop
- •II. Pod as Effects Only after pre-amp
- •III. Simple setup for amp with effects loop
- •IV. 4 Cable Method
- •E. I Tried This and It Doesn't Sound Good
- •F. Dual Output
- •G. Wet/Dry/Wet Output
- •H. Multiple Instruments/Independent Paths
- •I. Input Settings Global/Patch
- •Input 2
- •Impedance
- •J. The Effects (fx) Loop
- •K. The Mixer Block
- •L. Effects Order/Position
- •Noise Suppressors/Gates
- •Chorus/Phaser/Flanger
- •Delay/Reverb
- •Pitch Shifters
- •M. Gain Staging
- •I. Principles
- •II. Practice
- •V. Amp/Distortion Tone
- •A. Distortion Types/Overview
- •I. Frequency Chart
- •C. Gain Staging/Layering Distortions
- •D. High-Gain Amps
- •I. Park 75
- •II. Plexi Bright
- •IV. Uberschall
- •V. Dual Rectifier
- •VI. Fireball
- •VII. Elektrik
- •VIII. Dual Rectifier "Pre"
- •IX. Slo Overdrive
- •X. Doom
- •XI. Epic
- •E. Distortion Effects
- •I. Tube Drive
- •II. Screamer
- •III. Classic Distortion
- •IV. Overdrive
- •V. Facial Fuzz
- •VI. Line 6 Distortion
- •VII. Line 6 Drive
- •VIII. Others
- •F. Power Amp d.E.P.'s
- •G. Dual Amps
- •H. "Full" vs. "Pre"
- •I. The Elusive Pure Clean Tone
- •J. Noise Gates
- •VI. Cabs and Mics
- •I. Introduction
- •A. Cab/Mic Overview
- •Ignore General Frequency Response...
- •...Unless Frequencies are Missing
- •Response or Noise?
- •Using Res. Level to improve snr
- •Taming the Low End
- •Tonal Nuances
- •Dual Cabs
- •Using Cab/Mic Choices for eq Purposes
- •B. Cab Selection for Direct Tones
- •I. My Favorites
- •II. General Tips
- •III. Hiway 4x12
- •IV. Tread V-30 4x12
- •VI. Greenbacks 4x12
- •VII. Uber 4x12
- •VIII. Brit-t75 4x12
- •IX. Other cabs
- •C. Cab Selection for Live Tones
- •D. Mic Selection
- •I. Sm57 On/Off Axis
- •II. Dynamic Mics
- •III. Condenser Mics
- •IV. Ribbon Mics
- •E. Dual Cabs
- •I. Introduction
- •II. Getting the Patch Ready
- •III. Phase Correction
- •Cab/Mic Delay Times Matrix/alternate Google Cloud version/pdf version
- •IV. Eq'ing the tone
- •V. Other Amp Settings
- •VI. E.R. Settings
- •VII. Dsp Management
- •VIII. My Favorite Combinations
- •Res. Level
- •A. Classifying the Frequency Spectrum
- •B. How to eq a Hard Rock Tone
- •C. The Pod hd's eq Effects
- •I. Graphic eq
- •II. Parametric eq
- •III. Studio eq
- •IV. 4 Band Shift eq
- •VI. Q Filter
- •D. Eq'ing your Patch
- •E. Fizzy Spots
- •VIII. Tips and Pitfalls
- •A. Tone Matching
- •B. Branching/Evolving Patches
- •C. Setlist Tips
- •D. Effect Switching/Tips
- •E. Recording Tips
- •F. Monitoring
- •G. Dsp Allocation/Advice
- •H. Mesa Boogie Mark II/IV tone
- •I. Clean Boost
- •J. Leveling Patches
- •K. Clarifying Confusing Volume Controls
- •I. The Pad Switch
- •II. The master Knob
- •III. Amp/Channel Volume aka volume Knob
- •IV. Mixer Levels
- •V. Master d.E.P.
- •L. Clipping
- •I. Input Clipping
- •II. Signal Clipping
- •III. Effects Clipping
- •IV. Clipping external devices
- •V. "Digital Clipping" (Crossover Distortion) on "Full" Amp Models
- •M. Bad Monitoring
- •I. Acoustic Tone
- •II. Bad Monitors
- •III. Bad Room
- •IV. Low Volume
- •N. Wrong Output Mode
- •O. Gain Staging
- •P. Outside vs. Inside Mix
- •Q. Relying on Others' Patches
- •IX. TroubleShooting
- •A. Too much noise
- •B. Tone is fizzy/noisy
- •C. Tone is harsh
- •D. Tone has digital clipping
- •E. Tone is muffled
- •F. Distortion is muddy/fuzzy/farty
- •G. Distortion is dirty/gritty
- •H. Tone is thin
- •I. Software Knobs move on their own
- •J. I'm Getting dsp Limit Reached Errors
- •X. Faq and Links
- •A. Frequently Asked Questions
- •I. Tone
- •Is the tone better when using Input 2: Variax (or another unused input)?
- •Should I use "full" or "pre" amp models?
- •Where should I set the master knob?
- •What does the Master dep do for amps models where there was no master volume on the original?
- •II. Output/Routing Can I output dual output modes with the hd-500 or Pro?
- •Can I output w/d/w (wet/dry/wet)?
- •Can I reamp over usb?
- •Why can't I get any output from Channel b?
- •Why don't I have stereo output?
- •III. Usage How Should I Level my Patches?
- •Why can't I get a natural volume swell with the Exp. Pedal?
- •How do I use the Pitch Glide?
- •IV. Compatibility/Hardware Does the Pod hd work with Gearbox?
- •Can I use hd-XXX patches on hd-yyy?
- •What is the differences between the Pod hd models?
- •Can I use a different power adapter?
- •Can I modify my Pod hd to gain more dsp power?
- •Do you take tone requests?
- •B. Links
- •I. General
- •II. Forums
- •III. Pod hd References
- •B. Amps
- •C. Utilities
- •D. Routing
- •F. Footswitches/controls/Midi
- •G. Effects
- •H. Dsp Saving Features
- •I. Devkit
- •XII. Effects
- •A. Preferred Effects
- •I. Chorus
- •II. Flanger
- •III. Compressors
- •IV. Reverb
- •V. Delay
- •B. Dialing in the Flangers
- •C. Substitutes
- •D. Ordering
- •XIII. Glossary
- •I. Frequency Response
- •A. Signal-Based Terms
- •I. Clipping
- •II. Distortion
- •III. Signal
- •IV. Noise
- •V. Signal-to-Noise Ratio (snr)
- •VI. Impedance
- •VII. Signal Chain
- •VIII. Mono
- •IX. Stereo
- •X. Field
- •XI. Balance
- •I. Frequency Response
- •VII. Shelf
- •VIII. Peak/Valley
- •II. Fizz
- •III. Buzz
- •IV. Grinding
- •V. Crunchy
- •VI. Chunky/Punchy
- •VII. Fuzzy
- •VIII. Cold
- •IX. Warm
- •XIV. Change Log
- •Appendix a – Line 6 Effect Processing Diagrams
- •Appendix b - Line 6 Effect Processing Table
- •Appendix c – Cabinet/Mic Phase Correction Timing Data
- •Appendix d – dsp Usage of Effects
VIII. Cold
This term incorporates multiple facets of the tone. In the most general sense, it is a tone that is somewhat discomforting to hear for long stretches at a time, although a full mix with a cold guitar tone isn't necessarily difficult to listen to. It can refer to a dry tone (see "dry" below), or a scooped tone, but even if a tone has plenty of mids, it can still be considered cold. Generally the area of midrange in question is around 350 - 800 HZ. It can also refer to a bright tone (see "bright" below), as well as an overly crunchy or a grinding tone (see crunchy and grinding below). It can also refer to a tone that focuses intensely in one frequency range.
IX. Warm
Opposite of a cold tone - easy to listen to, with most frequencies in balance, and a healthy dose of "warm" frequencies from 350-800 HZ. Likely to have some resonance or reverb or delay to add at least some ambiance.
x. Hot
This actually refers to something different than the warm/cold dichotomy above. In reference to signal levels, a hot signal is used to describe a signal that is exceeding or nearly exceeds its maximum level before clipping/distorting. In reference to tone, this translates into the amount of distortion applied to the tone. A "hot" tone has lots of distortion. It can be used to express negative or positive connotations towards the level of distortion. For example, one may say the tone is "too hot", or one may say, "Man, that tone is hot!"
xi. Dry
This has two different contexts. One is used to describe the ambiance of the tone, which factors in resonance, reverb, or delay. A dry tone would have very little ambiance. The other context is used to describe how much effects are mixed into the tone. This context is often used when describing a Wet/Dry or Wet/Dry/Wet (W/DW) setup, where the main guitar signal is split in two (or three), with one side having no effects and the others having effects, such as modulation, reverb, delay, pitch shifting, etc. applied. Often the individual effects will have their maximum or otherwise extremely high mix settings used, and this "wet" signal(s) is mixed against the "dry" (no effects) signal to find the right balance of how "wet" the tone should be. The greater the balance of the "wet" signal(s) vs. the "dry" signal, the "wetter" the tone is said to be.
xii. Wet
Opposite of dry. See "dry".
xiii. Dark
Has two somewhat synonomous meanings. One describes a tone with greater emphasis on lower frequencies vs. higher frequencies as judged from the frequency response heard. The other refers to the nature of the distortion resulting from a dark signal being fed into a distortion stage. The distortion will usually be fuzzy and be quite broken up.
xiv. Bright
Opposite of dark. In reference to distortion, a bright distortion will often sound crunchy or sizzling (see "crunchy" and "sizzle"), perhaps even grinding (see "grinding"). The low-end will be "tight" and have more focus - no fuzzyness.
xv. Smooth
Generally the opposite of buzz. Sounds more like "oooo" than "zzzz". Also can refer to a lack of crackle in the tone/signal (see crackle).
xvi. Squishy/Saturated
This refers to the nature of the tone's distortion, mainly in reference to the attack and sustain of palm mutes. A squishy tone has a weak attack and a long sustain - the opposite of a percussive sound. Overall, the tone sounds more like a synth than a drum. The squishy characterstics are all present in unmuted playing - while there may be much more attack there, the tone is still very compressed and sustains relatively long. Two factors that contribute to a squishy tone are plenty of distortion and a mid-range focus to the signal being distorted.
xvii. Djenty
Term used to describe squishy palm mutes with a strong presence focus that makes them stand out. It is evident when playing muted power chords, particularly when using 4 or more notes.
xviii. Splatty
Describes a tone that is not smooth at all, but not necessarily buzzy. Similar to crackly, but whereas crackly is marked by a cracking/tearing type sound in the tone, splatty is marked more by random drop-outs to the tone and high-pitched squeals. It generally occurs by feeding an extremetly bright signal to a heavily distorted amp.
xix. Crackly
A noisy cracking or tearing type sound in the tone, noted by a seemingly random (irregular) appearance in the signal. Often caused by bad connections due to worn out cables or turning bad guitar pots. Rarely caused by settings, but can appear due to distorting multiple gain stages in succession to a high degree.
xx. Clanking
Basically just a grinding distortion but the "clanking" nature is emphasized when the tone is more percussive than squishy.
xxi. Ice-Pick
This refers to a tone that is so extremely bright, it hurts to listen to. It is said to be like driving an ice-pick into your ears. It can be due to high amounts of high frequencies that are normally very low volume compared to other frequencies in guitars - such as anything over 5-8 kHZ. But it can also be due to a peak frequency lower than this (such as 3kHZ) that is simply extremely loud.
xxii. Harsh
A harsh tone is any tone that is difficult to listen to at high volumes or for long periods of time, generally due to an overly bright frequency response or crackly, buzzy, or grinding nature of distortion.
xxiii. Muddy
Generally a tone that is too dark or has distortion on the low-end, causing it to lose focus and tightness, similar to fuzz. Basically fuzz applied just to the low-end. Almost always used in a negative context - unwanted mud.
xxiv. Thin
Usually means the tone is too bright, but isn't just related to the frequency response. It can also mean the tone is too dry or the distortion isn't squishy or warm or punchy enough. The term relates to the association of thinner strings or objects having less mass and producing less momentum, resonance, and lower frequencies.
xxv. Brittle
see "thin"
xxvi. Thick
Opposite of "thin" and often used in a positive context. You are more likely to hear "too dark" than "too thick".
xxvii. High-Gain
High-gain typically refers to an amplifier designed to add large amounts of distortion into the signal. Early guitar amps had no "Drive" or "Gain" control, only a master volume control. After amp manufacturers realized many players were turning up their amps as loud as possible to purposefully induce distortion, they incorporated this ability into their pre-amp circuits, where the player had more control over the level of distortion without having to make his amp deafeningly loud. Technically, any amp with a pre-amp "Drive" or "Gain" control is considered a "high-gain" amplifier, although different amps will provide different characteristics and levels of distortion.
