Introduction 0.5

standards of the day given the relative complexity of the machine. But Honda's lifelong pursuit of technical innovation sometimes distracted him from commercial reality. Fujisawa pointed out that they were in danger of ignoring their core business, the motorised bicycles that still formed Japan's main means of transport. In May 1952 the F-type Cub appeared, another two-stroke despite the top men's reservations. You could buy a complete machine or just the motor to attach to your own bicycle. The result was certainly distinctive, a white fuel tank with a circular profile went just below and behind the saddle on the left of the bike, and the motor with its horizontal cylinder and bright red cover just below the rear axle on the same side of the bike. This was the machine that turned Honda into the biggest bike maker in Japan with 70% of the market for bolt-on bicycle motors, the F-type was also the first Honda to be exported. Next came the machine that would turn Honda into the biggest motorcycle manufacturer in the world. The C100 Super Cub was a typically audacious piece of Honda engineering and marketing. For the first time, but not the last, Honda invented a completely new type of motorcycle, although the term 'scooterette' was coined to describe the new bike which had many of the characteristics of a scooter but the large wheels, and therefore stability, of a motorcycle. The first one was sold in August 1958, fifteen years later over nine-million of them were on the roads of the world. If ever a machine can be said to have brought mobility to the masses it is the Super Cub. If you add

The CB250N Super Dream became a favorite with UK learner riders of the late seventies

And early eighties

in the electric starter that was added for the I onda's export drive started in earnest in

C102 model of 1961, the design of the Super p^ 1957 when Britain and Holland got their

Cub has remained substantially unchanged I first bikes, America got just two bikes

ever since, testament to how right Honda got the next year. By 1962 Honda had half the

it first time. The Super Cub made Honda the American market with 65,000 sales. But

world's biggest manufacturer after just two Soichiro Honda had already travelled abroad

years of production. to Europe and the USA, making a special

The gl1000 introduced in 1975, was the first in Honda's line of GoldWings

point of going to the Isle of Man TT, then the most important race in the GP calendar. He realised that no matter how advanced his products were, only racing success would convince overseas markets for whom 'Made in Japan' still meant cheap and nasty. It took five years from Soichiro Honda's first visit to the Island before his bikes were ready for the TT. In 1959 the factory entered five riders in the 125 class. They did not have a massive impact on the event being benevolently regarded as a curiosity, but sixth, seventh and eighth were good enough for the team prize. The bikes were off the pace but they were well engineered and very reliable.

_w

The TT was the only time the West saw the Hondas in '59, but they came back for more the following year with the first of a generation of bikes which shaped the future of motorcycling - the double-overhead-cam four-cylinder 250. It was fast and reliable - it revved to 14,000 rpm - but didn't handle anywhere near as well as the opposition. However, Honda had now signed up non-Japanese riders to lead their challenge. The first win didn't come until 1962 (Aussie Tom Phillis in the Spanish 125 GP) and was followed up with a world-shaking perfor­mance at the TT. Twenty-one year old Mike Hailwood won both 125 and 250 cc TTs and Hondas filled the top five positions in both races. Soichiro Honda's master plan was starting to come to fruition, Hailwood and Honda won the 1961 250 cc World Championship. Next year Honda won three titles. The other Japanese factories fought back and inspired Honda to produce some of the most fascinating racers ever seen: the awesome six-cylinder 250, the five-cylinder 125, and the 500 four with which the immortal Hailwood battled Agostini and the MV Agusta. hen Honda pulled out of racing in '67 they had won sixteen rider's titles, eighteen manufacturer's titles, and 137 GPs, including 18 TTs, and introduced the concept of the modern works team to motorcycle racing. Sales success followed racing victory as Soichiro Honda had predicted, but only because the products advanced as rapidly as the racing machinery. The Hondas that came to Britain in the early '60s were incredibly sophisticated. They had overhead cams where the British bikes had pushrods, they had electric starters when the Brits relied on the kickstart, they had 12V electrics when even the biggest British bike used a 6V system. There seemed no end to the technical wizardry. It wasn't that the technology itself was so amazing but just like that first E-type, it was the fact that Honda could mass-produce it more reliably than the lower-tech competition that was so astonishing.

When in 1968 the first four-cylinder CB750 road bike arrived the world of motorcycling changed for ever, they even had to invent a new word for it, 'Superbike'. Honda raced again with the CB750 at Daytona and won the

_{Introduction o-<}

of Soichiro Honda's ideals. It used the latest techniques and materials in every component, from the oval-piston, 32-valve V4 motor to the titanium coating on the windscreen, it was -as Mr Honda would have wanted - the best it could possibly be. A fitting memorial to the man who has shaped the motorcycle industry and motorcycles as we know them today.

World Endurance title with a prototype DOHC version that became the CB900 roadster. There was the six-cylinder CBX, the CX500T -the world's first turbocharged production bike, they invented the full-dress tourer with the GoldWing, and came back to GPs with the revolutionary oval-pistoned NR500 four-stroke, a much-misunderstood bike that was more a rolling experimental laboratory than a racer. Just to show their versatility Honda also came up with the weird CX500 shaft-drive V-twin, a rugged workhorse that powered a new industry, the courier companies that oiled the wheels of commerce in London and other big cities.

It was true, though, that Mr Honda was not keen on two-strokes - early motocross engines had to be explained away to him as lawnmower motors! However, in 1982 Honda raced the NS500, an agile three-cylinder lightweight against the big four-cylinder opposition in 500 GPs. The bike won in its first year and in '83 took the world title for Freddie Spencer. In four-stroke racing the V4 layout took over from the straight four, dominating TT, F1 and Endurance championships with the RVF750, the nearest thing ever built to a Formula 1 car on wheels. And when Superbike arrived Honda were ready with the RC30. On the roads the VFR V4 became an instant classic while the CBR600 invented another new class of bike on its way to becoming a best-seller. The V4 road bikes had problems to start with but the VFR750 sold world-wide over its lifetime while the VFR400 became a massive commercial success and cult bike in Japan. The original RC30 won the first two World Superbike Championships is 1988 and '89, but Honda had to wait until 1997 to win it again with the RC45, the last of the V4 roadsters. In Grands Prix, the NSR500 V4 two-stroke superseded the NS triple and became the benchmark racing machine of the '90s. Mick Doohan secured his place in history by winning five World Championships in consecutive years on it. n yet another example of Honda inventing a new class of motorcycle, they came up with the astounding CBR900RR FireBlade, a bike with the punch of a 1000 cc motor in a package the size and weight of a 750. It became a cult bike as well as a best seller, and with judicious redesigns continues to give much more recent designs a run for their money.

When it became apparent that the high-tech V4 motor of the RC45 was too expensive to produce, Honda looked to a V-twin engine to power its flagship for the first time. Typically, the VTR1000 Firestorm was a much more rideable machine than its opposition and once accepted by the market formed the basis of the next generation of Superbike racer, the VTR-SP-1.

One of Mr Honda's mottos was that technology would solve the customers' problems, and no company has embraced

The CX500 - Honda's first V-Twin and a favorite choice of dispatch riders

cutting-edge technology more firmly than Honda. In fact Honda often developed new technology, especially in the fields of materials science and metallurgy. The embodiment of that was the NR750, a bike that was misunderstood nearly as much as the original NR500 racer. This limited-edition technological tour-de-force embodied many

The VFR400R was a cult bike in Japan and a popular grey import in the UK

_{)-s Introduction}

CB500

CB500S

Jack of all trades

There are some things Honda do better than anyone else and always have done. Giving customers value for money and quality in smaller capacity machines is one of them. Remember the old 400 cc Dream, that workhorse of the 1980s? It took the place in Honda's range previously occupied by the 400/4 of blessed memory. Heresy said the enthusiasts, ignoring the fact that the new twin was in every measurable way an Improvement on old multi. It was lighter, faster, better handling and cheaper to name just four areas of improvement. Sure the 250 Dream was under­powered, but that was just a sleeved down 400 for the UK learner market. The 400 Dream, and latterly 400 Super Dream, stayed in the range for what seemed like decades and was the most popular machine around for despatch riders, commuters and newly qualified riders.

The CB500 took on the challenge of doing the same job from 1993 and well into the 21 st-Century. Like the old Dream it is a parallel twin in a steel, twin-shock chassis and like the old bike it has remained very largely unchanged through its model life. The addition of a rear disc brake in its third year is the only significant change to the specification made since it arrived late in 1993. Like the Dream, the CB500 is a true all-rounder, unlike the Dream, the CB500 is also a good-looking bike.

In many ways the two bikes show just how far one often significant aspect of motorcycle technology has come despite the outward similarities between the designs. Although the claimed weights of each bike are nearly the same at 170 kg dry, the reality Is the new bike is considerably lighter and that is despite the water-cooling it carries to get through modern noise regulations. Its 57 hp gives it a top speed of around 115 mph, the Dream was a good 10 mph slower.

If you judge the CB500 solely by its spec-sheet, you would be forgiven for being under­whelmed. The riding experience is all here, it may have been aimed at the new rider or workaday commuter but riding it is a fun experience. In fact it is such a competent machine in every department that it is impossible to fault, if there is a weakness it is that the Honda is more expensive than its obvious competition in the twin-cylinder ranks. The fact it can handle corners as well as the commuter slog is born out by the all-action CB500 Cup that was run in the UK and France, providing the sort of action not seen since the good old days of the Yamaha 350LC Pro-Am. In the UK, there were classes for novices and national class riders and it was there that we first saw the talent of James Toseland who went on to race in Supersport and Superbike world championships as a works rider.

That bit of race-track cred helps explain why the bike has hardly changed since it first appeared at the end of 1993 ('94 model year), it simply didn't need improving. There were detail changes and a rear disc replaced the drum stopper for the 1997 model year. The Cup model was an option alongside the standard model - it had silver paint and a 'Cup' logo on the tank to go with the race series. The CB500S was introduced in 1998, a half-faired model with square headlight and modified instrumentation. Right through its model life, the other changes to the CB500 have been limited to new paint schemes for each model year.

Although the CB500 was obviously aimed at the new or impecunious rider, it would be a mistake to pigeon-hole it as mere commuter fodder. It will do just about anything short of long-distance motorway bashing with two people and their luggage on-board and it won't just do it, it will do it in style while providing the rider with plenty of reasons to smile. If you really need to know the verdict on the CB500 consider this remark which passed between two very high-up European members of Honda staff at the press launch. At a mid-ride stop, the two gentlemen who had better remain nameless for their own sakes took of their helmets, put their heads together and spoke loudly enough for one remark to be overheard: "Was it meant to be this good?"

Acknowledgements

Our thanks are due to Bransons Motorcycles of Yeovil who supplied the machines featured in the illustrations throughout this manual. We would also like to thank NGK Spark Plugs (UK) Ltd for supplying the colour spark plug condition photographs, the Avon Rubber Company for supplying information on tyre fitting and Draper Tools Ltd for some of the workshop tools shown.

Thanks are also due to Julian Ryder who wrote 'The Birth of a Dream' and to Honda (UK) Ltd who supplied model photographs.

About this Manual

The aim of this manual is to help you get the

best value from your motorcycle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs.

We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the motorcycle into a dealer and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labour

and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself.

References to the left or right side of the motorcycle assume you are sitting on the seat, facing forward.

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but motorcycle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular motorcycle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

_{Identification numbers 0.9}

Frame and engine numbers

The frame serial number is stamped into the right-hand side of the steering head. The engine number is stamped into the top of the crankcase on the right-hand side. Both of these numbers should be recorded and kept in a safe place so they can be furnished to law enforcement officials in the event of a theft. There is also a carburettor identification number on the intake side of each carburettor body, and a colour code label on the top of the rear mudguard, under the seat.

The frame serial number, engine serial number, carburettor identification number and colour code should also be kept in a handy place (such as with your driver's licence) so they are always available when purchasing or ordering parts for your machine.

The procedures In this manual identify models by their code letter (eg X, meaning a 1999 standard model, and SX, meaning a

1999 faired model). The code letter is printed on the colour code label stuck to the top of the rear mudguard. Refer to the colour code label or the table below to identify your exact model, noting that the actual engine and frame number details given relate to those for sale in the UK market.

Buying spare parts

Once you have found all the identification numbers, record them for reference when buying parts. Since the manufacturers change specifications, parts and vendors (companies that manufacture various components on the machine), providing the ID numbers is the only way to be reasonably sure that you are buying the correct parts.

Whenever possible, take the worn part to the dealer so direct comparison with the new component can be made. Along the trail from the manufacturer to the parts shelf, there are numerous places that the part can end up

with the wrong number or be listed incorrectly.

The two places to purchase new parts for your motorcycle - the accessory store and the franchised dealer - differ in the type of parts they carry. While dealers can obtain every part for your motorcycle, the accessory dealer is usually limited to normal high wear items such as shock absorbers, tune-up parts, various engine gaskets, cables, chains, brake parts, etc. Rarely will an accessory outlet have major suspension components, camshafts, trans­mission gears, or cases.

Used parts can be obtained for roughly half the price of new ones, but you can't always be sure of what you're getting. Once again, take your worn part to the breaker for direct comparison.

Whether buying new, used or rebuilt parts, the best course is to deal directly with someone who specialises in parts for your particular make.

Model	Code	Year	Initial engine no.	Initial frame no.	Carb ID no.
CB500	R	1993/4/5	PC26E-2000094	PC26-2000074	VPN0B-A
CB500	T	1996	PC26E-2100001	PC32A0TF000001	VPN0F-A
CB500	V	1997	PC26E-2200001	PC32A0VF100001	VPN0F-A
CB500	W	1998	PC26E-2300001	PC32A0WF200001	VPN0K-A
CB500	X	1999	PC26E-2400001	PC32A0XF206241	VPN0K-A
CB500	Y	2000/1	PC26E-2500001	PC32A0YF220001	VPN0K-A
CB500S	W	1998	PC26E-2300001	PC32E0WF300001	VPN0K-A
CB500S	X	1999	PC26E-2400001	PC32E0XF306261	VPN0K-A
CB500S	Y	2000/1	PC26E-2500001	PC32E0YF320001	VPN0K-A

The colour code label is stuck to the rear mudguard

Engine number location

Frame number location

o.io Bike spec and Performance data

Bike spec

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T Height

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Wheelbase

Length

Weights and dimensions

Overall length 2090 mm (82.3 in)

Overall width 720 mm (28.3 in)

Overall height

R, T, V. W, X, Y models 1050 mm (41.3 in)

S-W, S-X, S-Y models 1160 mm (45.7 in)

Wheelbase

R, T, V, W, X, Y models 1430 mm (56.3 in)

S-W, S-X, S-Y models 1435 mm (56.5 in)

Seat height 775 mm (30.5 in)

Ground clearance 145 mm (5.7 in)

Engine weight 56 kg (123 lb)

Dry weight (no fuel and oil)

R and T models 170 kg (375 lb)

V, W, X, Y models 173 kg (381 lb)

S-W, S-X, S-Y models 179 kg (395 lb)

Max. payload (rider, passenger, luggage, accessories).. .184 kg (406 lb)

Performance data

. .57 bhp (42.5 kW) @ 9500 rpm .34.7 Ibf ft (47 Nm) @ 8000 rpm

Maximum power

Claimed

Maximum torque

Claimed

Top speed

Estimated 115 to 120 mph (185 to 193 km/h)

Acceleration

Time taken to cover a 'A mile from a standing start 13.5 seconds

Terminal speed after V4 mile 97.5 mph (157 km/h)

Average fuel consumption

Miles per Imp gal, miles per litre,

litres per 100 km 49 mpg, 10.7 mpl, 5.8 1/100 km

Fuel tank range

Based on average fuel consumption rate 196 miles (315 km)

Performance data sourced from Motor Cycle News road test features. See the MCN website for up-to-date biking news.

r^TI www.motorcyclenews.com

Bike spec and Performance data o-n

Engine

Type Liquid-cooled, 8V parallel twin cylinder, 20" inclined from vertical

Capacity 499 cc

Bore and stroke 73 x 59.5 mm

Compression ratio 10.5 :1

Camshafts DOHC, chain-driven

Carburettors 2 x 34 mm flat-slide Keihin VP type

Ignition system Digital transistorised with electronic advance

Clutch Wet multi-plate, cable-operated

Gearbox 6-speed constant mesh

Final drive chain RK 525SMOZ5 or DID 525V8 (108 links)

Chassis

Frame type Double cradle of tubular and box-section steel construction

Fuel tank capacity (including reserve) 18 lit (4.0 Imp gal, 4.8 US gal)

Fuel tank reserve 2.5 lit (0.55 Imp gal, 0.66 US gal)

Rake 27°20'

Trail

R, T, V, W, X, Y models 113 mm (4.45 in)

S-W, S-X, S-Y models 108 mm (4.25 in)

Front suspension

Type 37 mm oil-damped telescopic forks

Travel 115 mm (4.5 in)

Adjustment non-adjustable

Rear suspension

Type Twin shocks acting on a steel, box-section swingarm

Travel 117 mm (4.6 in)

Adjustment 5 position pre-load

Wheels 17 inch 6-spoke alloys

Tyres

Front 110/80-17 57H

Rear 130/80-17 65H

Front brake

CB500R and T models single 296 mm disc with Nissin 2-piston sliding caliper

All other models single 296 mm disc with Brembo 2-piston sliding caliper

Rear brake

CB500R and T models 160 mm drum

All other models single 240 mm disc with Brembo single piston sliding caliper

Model development

CB500-R (1994 model year) CB500-T (1996 model year) ^Th® naif-faired cbsoos sport model was

The very first CB500 model was the The CB500-T was introduced in November introduced in February 1998. The S model

CB500-R, introduced in October 1993. 1995. There were no significant changes from ^{dlf,eredfrom ne standard m}°^de''"k^T-⁹

The CB500 uses a new 180° parallel twin the R model. "f* instrumentation, a square headlight set in

engine, with a balancer shaft to smooth out ~_Dcnn ., _HM. , , . ^{tne fa,nn}9' ^{and a dlfferent handl}f^{ar mountln}9

engine vibration. Drive to the double overhead CB500-V (1997 model year) arrangement. Colours were red, yellow and

camshafts is by a centrally-positioned chain ^Tne CB500-V was introduced in November ^b|ack.

for direct operation of the four valves per 1996. The front brake caliper changed to pncnn y _anfj q Y MQQQ

cylinder. The engine is liquid-cooled, although Brembo manufacture, previously Nissin, The «D3UU-A diiu o-/\ \ 5»»o

the cosmetic finning on the cylinders and rear disc brake, also manufactured by model year)

head give the appearance of an air-cooled Brembo, replaced the drum brake used on _{Jhe CB50Q}__{X were intro(juced |n}

engine. The clutch is a conventional wet multi- previous models. _{npramhpr lqqa Th}„_{rp were no S}j_anjfj_cant

plate unit and the gearbox is 6-speed. Drive to This year saw the start of CB500 Cup race *%£ ^ ^LTSdS. ^

the rear wheel is by chain and sprockets. series. One of the production models was """ ^yo° ""'" ^UIB t^J,ov,uu

The engine sits in a double cradle frame, available in silver with cup logo on the fuel CB500-Y and S-Y (2000

with box-section tubing for the upper rails, tank to celebrate the race series.

Front suspension is by conventional oil- pRenn \a# **nt\ e \KI HQQO model year)

damped 37 mm forks. Rear suspension, V/DOUU-W ana O-W [laao _{Jhe CB500}._{Y and s}._{y were introduce}d in

rather unusually, is by twin shock absorbers, model year) September 1999. There were no changes

Braking is by a single disc at the front and The CB500-W was introduced in October from previous models apart from graphics.

drum at the rear. 1997. There were no significant changes from Colours were black, red and metallic blue and

The CB500-R was available in black, red, the V model apart from colours and graphics, all models had gold anodised wheels.

green and blue colour schemes. It continued The CB500-W was available in red, yellow, The CB500-Y and S-Y models continued

unchanged through 1995. black and silver. unchanged through 2001,

o.i2 Safety First!

Professional mechanics are trained in safe working procedures. However enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not put at risk. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe simple precautions.

There will always be new ways of having accidents, and the following is not a compre­hensive list of all dangers; it is intended rather to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safe approach to all work you carry out on your bike.

Asbestos

• Certain friction, insulating, sealing and other products - such as brake pads, clutch linings, gaskets, etc. - contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

Fire

• Remember at all times that petrol is highly flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of naked flame around, when working on the vehicle. But the risk does not end there - a spark caused by an electrical short-circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, by careless use of tools, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite petrol vapour, which in a confined space is highly explosive. Never use petrol as a cleaning solvent. Use an approved safety solvent,

• Always disconnect the battery earth terminal before working on any part of the fuel or electrical system, and never risk spilling fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust.

• It is recommended that a fire extinguisher of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is kept handy in the garage or workplace at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

Fumes

• Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Petrol vapour comes into this category, as do the vapours from certain solvents such as trichloro-ethylene. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area.

• When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers - they may give off poisonous vapours.

• Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in an enclosed space such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is extremely poisonous; if you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the workplace.

The battery

• Never cause a spark, or allow a naked light near the vehicle's battery. It will normally be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive.

• Always disconnect the battery ground (earth) terminal before working on the fuel or electrical systems (except where noted).

• If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover when charging the battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst.

• Take care when topping up, cleaning or carrying the battery. The acid electrolyte, evenwhen diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact the eyes or skin. Always wear rubber gloves and goggles or a face shield. If you ever need to prepare electrolyte yourself, always add the acid slowly to the water; never add the water to the acid.

Electricity

• When using an electric power tool, inspection light etc., always ensure that the appliance is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, It is properly grounded (earthed). Do not use such appliances in damp conditions and, again, beware of creating a spark or applying excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapour. Also ensure that the appliances meet national safety standards.

• A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the electrical system, such as the spark plug wires (HT leads), when the engine is running or being cranked, partic­ularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. Where an electronic ignition system is used, the secondary (HT) voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

Remember...

X Don't start the engine without first ascer­taining that the transmission is in neutral. X Don't suddenly remove the pressure cap from a hot cooling system - cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually first, or you may get scalded by escaping coolant. X Don't attempt to drain oil until you are sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid scalding you.

X Don't grasp any part of the engine or exhaust system without first ascertaining that it is cool enough not to bum you. X Don't allow brake fluid or antifreeze to contact the machine's paintwork or plastic components.

X Don't siphon toxic liquids such as fuel, hydraulic fluid or antifreeze by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. X Don't inhale dust - it may be injurious to health (see Asbestos heading). X Don't allow any spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe it up right away, before someone slips on it. X Don't use ill-fitting spanners or other tools which may slip and cause injury. X Don't lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance.

X Don't rush to finish a job or take unverified short cuts.

X Don't allow children or animals in or around an unattended vehicle. X Don't Inflate a tyre above the recommended pressure. Apart from over-stressing the carcass, in extreme cases the tyre may blow off forcibly.

• Do ensure that the machine is supported securely at all times. This Is especially important when the machine is blocked up to aid wheel or fork removal.

• Do take care when attempting to loosen a stubborn nut or bolt. It is generally better to pull on a spanner, rather than push, so that if you slip, you fall away from the machine rather than onto it.

• Do wear eye protection when using power tools such as drill, sander, bench grinder etc.

• Do use a barrier cream on your hands prior to undertaking dirty jobs - it will protect your skin from infection as well as making the dirt easier to remove afterwards; but make sure your hands aren't left slippery. Note that long-term contact with used engine oil can be a health hazard.

• Do keep loose clothing (cuffs, ties etc. and long hair) well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc., before working on the vehicle - especially the electrical system.

• Do keep your work area tidy - it is only too easy to fall over articles left lying around.

• Do exercise caution when compressing springs for removal or installation. Ensure that the tension is applied and released in a controlled manner, using suitable tools which preclude the possibility of the spring escaping violently.

• Do ensure that any lifting tackle used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

• Do get someone to check periodically that all is well, when working alone on the vehicle.

• Do carry out work in a logical sequence and check that everything is correctly assembled and tightened afterwards.

• Do remember that your vehicle's safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get professional advice. • If in spite of following these precautions, you are unfortunate enough to Injure yourself, seek medical attention as soon as possible.

Daily or (pre-ride) checks o

13

Note: The daily (pre-ride) checks outlined in the owner's manual covers those items which should be inspected on a daily basis.

Engine/transmission oil level check

The correct oil

• Modem, high-rewing engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your bike is used.

• Always top up with a good quality oil of the specified type and viscosity and do not overfill the engine.

Oil type	API grade SE, SF or SG
Oil viscosity	SAE10W30

Before you start:

• Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature.

Caution: Do not run the engine in an enclosed space such as a garage or workshop.

• Stop the engine and place the motorcycle on its centre stand on level ground. Allow it to stand undisturbed for a few minutes to allow the oil level to stabilise.

Bike care:

• If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. If there is no sign of oil leakage from the joints and gaskets the engine could be burning oil (see Fault Finding).

mS -	■fr'~	0 «■».--»•
*; -' '' I §-"■*--	V
	.

1 Unscrew the oil filler cap (arrowed) from the right-hand crankcase cover. The dipstick is integral with the oil filler cap, and is used to check the engine oil level.

Using a clean rag or paper towel, wipe off all the oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick back into the engine, but do not screw it in.

3 Remove the dipstick and observe the level of the oil, which should lie somewhere between the upper and lower level lines (arrowed).

If the level is below the lower line, top the engine up with the recommended grade and type of oil, to bring the level up to the upper line on the dipstick. Do not overfill.

o.i4 Daily (pre-ride) checks

Brake fluid level checks

_A

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it and cover surrounding surfaces with rag. Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness

Before you start:

• Support the motorcycle on its centre stand on level ground, and turn the handlebars until the top of the front master cylinder is as level as possible. The rear master cylinder reservoir is located below the seat cowling on the right-hand side of the machine.

• Make sure you have the correct hydraulic fluid - DOT 4 is recommended.

• Wrap a rag around the reservoir being worked on to ensure that any spillage does not come into contact with painted surfaces.

• Access to the rear reservoir cap is restricted by the seat cowling. Unscrew the reservoir mounting bolt to gain access to the cap if topping up is required.

Bike care:

• The fluid in the front and rear brake master cylinder reservoirs will drop slightly as the brake pads wear down.

• If any fluid reservoir requires repeated topping-up this is an indication of an hydraulic leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately.

• Check for signs of fluid leakage from the hydraulic hoses and components - if found, rectify immediately.

• Check the operation of both brakes before taking the machine on the road; if there is evidence of air in the system (spongy feel to lever or pedal), it must be bled as described in Chapter 7.

The front brake fluid level is visible through the sightglass in the reservoir body - it must be above the LOWER level line (arrowed).

2 If the level is below the LOWER level line, remove the two reservoir cap screws and remove the cap, the diaphragm plate and the diaphragm.

Top up with new DOT 4 hydraulic fluid, until the level is just below the UPPER level line cast on the inside of the reservoir (arrowed). Do not overfill, and take care to avoid spills (see Warning above).

A Ensure that the diaphragm is correctly seated before installing the

plate and cap. Tighten the cap screws securely.

The rear brake fluid level is visible through the reservoir body - the fluid level must be between the UPPER and LOWER level lines

(arrowed). Remove the reservoir mounting bolt and carefully

manoeuvre the reservoir out to access the cap.

Daily or (pre-ride) checks 0.15

Loading	Front	Rear
Rider only	29 psi (2.00 Bar)	33 psi (2.25 Bar)
Rider and passenger	29 psi (2.00 Bar)	36 psi (2.50 Bar)

Tyre checks

The correct pressures:

• The tyres must be checked when cold, not immediately after riding. Note that low tyre pressures may cause the tyre to slip on the rim or come off. High tyre pressures will cause abnormal tread wear and unsafe handling.

• Use an accurate pressure gauge.

• Proper air pressure will increase tyre life and provide maximum stability and ride comfort.

Tyre care:

• Check the tyres carefully for cuts, tears, embedded nails or other sharp objects and excessive wear. Operation of the motorcycle with excessively worn tyres is extremely hazardous, as traction and handling are directly affected.

• Check the condition of the tyre valve and ensure the dust cap is in place.

• Pick out any stones or nails which may have become embedded in the tyre tread. If left, they will eventually penetrate through the casing and cause a puncture.

• If tyre damage is apparent, or unexplained loss of pressure is experienced, seek the advice of a motorcycle tyre fitting specialist without delay.

Tyre tread depth:

• At the time of writing UK law requires that tread depth must be at least 1 mm over ³/4 of the tread breadth all the way around the tyre, with no bald patches. Many riders, however, consider 2 mm tread depth minimum to be a safer limit. Honda recommend a minimum of 2 mm on both tyres.

• Many tyres now incorporate wear indicators in the tread. Identify the triangular pointer or 'TWI' mark on the tyre sidewall to locate the indicator bar and renew the tyre if the tread has worn down to the bar.

Check the tyre pressures when the tyres are cold and keep them properly inflated.

Measure tread depth at the centre of the tyre using a tread depth gauge.

Look for the tyre information label on the chainguard.

3 Tyre tread wear indicator bar and its location marking (usually either an arrow, a triangle or the letters TWI) on the sidewall (arrowed).

0*16 Daily or (pre-ride) checks

Coolant level check

_A

Warning: DO NOT remove the radiator pressure cap to add coolant. Topping up is done via the coolant reservoir tank filler. DO NOT leave open containers of coolant about, as it is poisonous.

Before you start:

• Make sure you have a supply of coolant available (a mixture of 50% distilled water and 50% corrosion inhibited ethylene glycol anti-freeze is needed).

• Always check the coolant level when the engine is at normal working temperature. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal temperature, then stop the engine.

Caution: Do not run the engine in an enclosed space such as a garage or workshop.

• Place the motorcycle on its centre stand on level ground.

Bike care:

• Use only the specified coolant mixture. It is important that anti-freeze is used in the system all year round, and not just in the winter. Do not top the system up using only water, as the system will become too diluted.

• Do not overfill the reservoir tank. If the coolant is significantly above the UPPER level line at any time, the surplus should be siphoned or drained off to prevent the possibility of it being expelled out of the overflow hose.

• If the coolant level falls steadily, check the system for leaks (see Chapter 1). If no leaks are found and the level continues to fall, it is recommended that the machine is taken to a Honda dealer for a pressure test.

(arrowed) are on the front of the reservoir.

IThe coolant reservoir is located behind the engine unit on the right-hand side. The coolant UPPER and LOWER level lines

If the coolant level is not in between the UPPER and LOWER markings, remove the reservoir filler cap and top the coolant level up with the recommended coolant mixture. Fit the cap securely.

Suspension, steering and final drive checks

Suspension and steering:

• Check that the front and rear suspension operate smoothly without binding.

• Check that the rear suspension is adjusted as required.

• Check that the steering moves smoothly from lock-to-lock.

Final drive:

• Check that the drive chain slack isn't excessive, and adjust if necessary (see Chapter 1).

• If the chain looks dry, lubricate it (see Chapter 1).

Legal and safety checks

Lighting and signalling:

• Take a minute to check that the headlight, tail light, brake light, instrument lights and turn signals all work correctly.

• Check that the hom sounds when the switch is operated.

• A working speedometer graduated in mph is a statutory requirement in the UK.

Safety:

• Check that the throttle grip rotates smoothly and snaps shut when released, in all steering positions. Also check for the correct amount of freeplay (see Chapter 1).

• Check that the engine shuts off when the kill switch is operated.

• Check that sidestand return spring holds the stand securely up when it is retracted.

• Check that the clutch lever operates smoothly and with the correct amount of freeplay (see Chapter 1).

• On R and T models, check the operation of the rear brake drum. If brake stopping power is poor or the brake does not free-off when the pedal is released, investigate the problem immediately.

Fuel:

• This may seem obvious, but check that you have enough fuel to complete your journey. If you notice signs of fuel leakage - rectify the cause immediately.

• Ensure you use the correct grade unleaded fuel - see Chapter 4 Specifications.

1*1

^{Chapter 1}

Routine maintenance and servicing

Contents

Air filter and sub-air cleaner - renewal 25

Battery - charging see Chapter 9

Battery - check 12

Battery - removal, installation and inspection see Chapter 9

Brake caliper and master cylinder seals - renewal 29

Brake fluid - change 24

Brake hoses - renewal 30

Brake pads and shoe linings - wear check 3

Rear brake pedal position and freeplay (R and T models) -

check and adjustment 4

Brake system - check 9

Carburettors - synchronisation 15

Centre and sidestand - check 17

Clutch - check and adjustment 5

Cooling system - check 10

Cooling system - draining, flushing and refilling 28

Crankcase breather - clean 7

Cylinder compression - check 32

Drive chain and sprockets - check, adjustment and

lubrication 1

Drive chain slider - wear check 22

Engine oil pressure - check 33

Engine/transmission oil and filter change 8

Exhaust system- check 37

Front forks - oil change 38

Fuel hoses - renewal 31

Fuel system - check 11

Headlight aim - check and adjustment 16

Idle speed - check and adjustment 2

Levers, stand pivots and cables - lubrication 6

Nuts and bolts - tightness check 23

Rear brake cam (R and T models) - lubrication 36

Spark plugs - check and adjustment 13

Spark plugs - renewal 27

Steering head bearings - check and adjustment 19

Steering head bearings - lubrication 34

Suspension - check 18

Swingarm bearings - lubrication 35

Throttle and choke cables - check and adjustment 14

Valve clearances - check and adjustment 26

Wheels and tyres - general check 21

Wheel bearings - check 20

Degrees of difficulty

Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

I I

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent <a^ DIY mechanic !JS

Difficult, suitable for ^ experienced DIY 3^

mechanic