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Файл:Honda_CB500_S_93-01_Haynes_Service_Manual_ENG_Skanirovanny.doc
X
- •In full colour
- •Contents
- •Introduction 0.5
- •And early eighties
- •The gl1000 introduced in 1975, was the first in Honda's line of GoldWings
- •15 Very difficult,
- •Component location on
- •1.6 Introduction
- •1.2 Check the sprockets in the areas indicated to see if they are worn excessively
- •1.3 Push up on the chain and measure the slack
- •1.6 Rear axle nut (a), locknut (b), 1.7a Turn the adjusters (arrowed) to
- •1.7B Chain wear decal (a) and alignment marks (b)
- •1.9 Tighten the axle nut to the specified torque
- •1.11 Apply the lubricant to the overlap in the sideplates
- •4.6A Slacken locknut (a) and adjust pedal height with screwdriver at (b)
- •4.1A Measure brake pedal freeplay at the pedal tip
- •5.3 Measuring clutch cable freeplay
- •5.4 Slacken the lockring (a) and turn the adjuster (b) in or out as required
- •6.3A Lubricating a cable with a cable oiler clamp. Ensure the tool seals around the
- •Inner cable
- •6.3B Lubricating a cable with a makeshift funnel and motor oil
- •7.1 Crankcase breather tube (arrowed) is located in a bracket on 7.2 Remove the plug to drain the breather
- •8.3 Unscrew the oil filer cap to vent the crankcase
- •8.4 Remove the drain plug and allow the oil to drain completely
- •8.7A Smear the filter seal with clean engine oil...
- •8.7B ... And tighten the filter securely
- •9.3 Flex the brake hose and check for cracks, bulges and leaking fluid
- •10.3 Check all coolant hoses and joints (arrowed) for leaks
- •9.5 Rear brake light switch adjuster ring (arrowed)
- •10.7 Turn pressure cap slowly anticlockwise to remove
- •11.2 Renew fuel tap o-ring to cure persistent leaks
- •11.5 Fuel tap, o-ring and fuel filter
- •13.5B ... And separate the plug from the tool
- •13.9A Using a feeler gauge to measure the spark plug electrode gap
- •14.5 Throttle cable adjuster (a), upper locknut (b) and lower locknut (c) at carburettor end
- •14.9 Choke cable bracket (a) and screw (b)
- •15.6 Fuel tap vacuum hose union on I cylinder inlet manifold (arrowed)
- •15.10 Carburettor synchronising screw (arrowed)
- •16.2 Headlight alignment reference marks on headlight shell (a) and bracket (b)
- •18.8 Checking for play in the shock absorber mounts
- •19.4 Checking for play in the steering head bearings
- •19.6 Remove the steering stem nut and washer
- •19.7 Lift the top yoke off the fork tubes
- •19.8 Inspect the lockwasher tabs for cracks and fatigue
- •23 Nuts and boH
- •25 Air filter and sub-air cleaner
- •26.5 Note valve clearances on a simple sketch
- •26.7B Check clearances on No. 1 cylinder valves with cam sprockets in this position
- •26.8 Measure the valve clearance using a feeler gauge
- •26.9 Check clearances on No. 2 cylinder valves with cam sprockets in this position
- •28.2A Unscrew the drain plug (arrowed)...
- •28.3 Detach the overflow hose from the bottom of the reservoir tank
- •28.12 Fill the system with the specified mixture
- •29 Brake caliper seals and
- •Very difficult,
- •Valves, guides and springs
- •1 General information
- •2 Operations possible with the engine in the frame
- •3 Operations requiring engine removal
- •5.8A Detach the hose from the valve cover...
- •5.7 Release the clips (arrowed) and detach the hoses from the thermostat housing
- •5.8B ... And remove the sub-air cleaner
- •5.30 Raise engine unit into position with the help of a jack
- •Installation
- •5.32A Loosely assemble the left-hand sub-frame...
- •5.32B ... And sub-frame nuts and bolts
- •5.34 Position the front bolt spacers on each side (r, t, V, w, X, y only)
- •5.35E ... And the front mounting bolt
- •7.5 Unscrew the bolts and lift off the valve 7.8a Apply sealant to the valve cover ... Cover
- •7.8B ... And the cut-outs in the cylinder
- •Installation
- •8.1A Remove camchain tensioner bolt and washer
- •8.1B a copy of Honda's tensioner locking key can be made from a piece of 1 mm mild steel
- •Installation
- •9.3B ... And the o marks on the camshaft gears (arrowed) align with the cylinder head surface
- •9.8A Check the lobes of the camshaft for wear - here's an example of damage requiring repair or renewal
- •9.8B Measure the height of the camshaft lobes with a micrometer
- •9.11 Measure the cam bearing journals with a micrometer
- •9.25B Check that all the marks are in alignment
- •Installation
- •10.5 Unscrew the bolts securing the coolant pipe union (arrowed)
- •10.6A 9 mm head bolts (a) and 6 mm head bolts (b)
- •10.10 Clean jointing faces of cylinder head and block thoroughly
- •Installation
- •12.3 Valve components
- •12.7 Discard the old valve stem seals (arrowed)
- •Inspection
- •12.14 Measure the valve seat width with a ruler (or for greater precision use a vernier caliper)
- •12.5G ... Check the valve stem (2) above the collet groove (1) and remove any burrs
- •12.27B Compress the springs and install the collets, making sure they locate in the groove
- •Inspection
- •13.20B Install cover bolts and wiring clamp (arrowed)
- •13.20A Ensure the engine cover locates on the dowel (a) and gear shaft (b)
- •15.3B ... On the leverage points around the cover (arrowed)
- •15.4 Remove the ignition pulse generator and the clutch pushrod (arrowed)
- •15.5A Clutch assembly
- •15.5B Unscrew the bolts and remove the plate and springs
- •15.9 Remove the thrust washer
- •15.10B ... And remove the clutch housing
- •15.8A Pull the clutch off the shaft as an assembly
- •15.8B Friction plates - innermost plate (a), outermost plate (b) and standard plate (c)
- •15.11B ... And pull the sprockets and chain off as an assembly
- •15.23B ... And check the condition of the needle bearing
- •15.36B ... And turn the shaft to align the pushrod seat (arrowed)
- •15.37 Install the ignition pulse generator (a) and the wiring grommet (b)
- •Inspection
- •Installation
- •15.38B ... Then install the cover and clutch cable bracket
- •16.5 Note how the tabs and springs locate 16.8 1.T mark (a), wide spline (b) and
- •16.9 Install the balancer gear on its shaft
- •17.10 Measuring rotor end-float
- •18.4 Oil pipe short end (a) faces front, long end (b) faces rear
- •18.2B Remove the sump and discard the gasket
- •Inspection
- •18.3 Remove the oil strainer and packing collar (arrowed)
- •Installation
- •18.5 Discard o-ring (arrowed) on relief valve
- •18.9B Remove circlip to dismantle valve
- •19.4B Gearchange shaft thrust washer (arrowed)
- •Installation
- •19.11 Cam locating pin (a) and locating recess (b)
- •19.13 Position the stopper arm roller in the neutral detent
- •19.14 Install shaft with washer (a) and locate return spring (b) on pin (c)
- •20.3A Upper crankcase 6 rnm bolts (a), 8 mm bolts (b) and 10 mm (c) bolt
- •20.3B Triangle (arrowed) denotes use of sealing washer on adjacent bolt
- •20.19 Install the 8 mm lower crankcase bolts first...
- •20.20 ... Then install the 6 mm bolts 20.21 Install the single 10 mm bolt in the
- •22.2 Measuring big-end side clearance
- •22.4 Detach the big-end caps with the lower bearing shells (arrowed)
- •22.5A Remove the piston and connecting rod from the top end of the cylinder
- •22.5B Keep the piston and rod (a), big-end cap (b) and cap nuts (c) together as an assembly
- •Inspection
- •22.21 Bearing shell colour code location (arrowed)
- •22.25 Feed the rings into the bore with care
- •Installation
- •22.27 Fit the cap and shell onto the corresponding rod, aligning the markings (arrowed)
- •22.28 Lubricate the cap nuts before fitting
- •23.6B Piston ring reference (arrowed)
- •23.12 Measuring the piston ring-to-groove clearance with a feeler gauge
- •23.13 Measuring the piston diameter at the specified distance from the bottom of the skirt
- •23.17 Ensure the circlips are correctly seated in their grooves
- •24.5 Enlarging ring end gap with the file clamped in a vice
- •24.11 Check that the compression rings are the right way up before fitting
- •20Mm (0.8in) or more
- •20Mm (0.8in) or more
- •24.13 Stagger the ring end gaps as shown
- •Inspection
- •25.3 Lift the crankshaft and camchain out 25.4 Push the shells out, don't lever them together
- •25.6B ... And the alternator taper and Woodruff key
- •25.12 Fit the shells locating the tab (arrowed) in the notch
- •25.14 Lay a strip of Plastigauge on each journal parallel to the crankshaft centreline
- •25.15 Main bearing bolts
- •25.17 Measuring the width of the crushed Plastigauge
- •25.21A Crankshaft main bearing journal size codes
- •Installation
- •25.21B Main bearing housing size codes
- •Inspection
- •26.2 Lift the balancer shaft (arrowed) out without disturbing the crankshaft
- •26.10 Lubricate the bearing shells ,
- •Installation
- •Inspection
- •28.2 Unscrew bolts (arrowed) to remove retainer plate
- •28.3B Location of input shaft needle bearing dowel (arrowed)
- •28.5 Check the condition of the output shaft oil seal and grease on reassembly
- •Installation
- •28.6 Ensure the correct location of the bearing ring (a) and oil seal lip (b)
- •28.7 Ensure input shaft bearing locates on dowel
- •28.9 Use locking compound on bearing retainer plate bolts
- •Input shaft
- •Inspection
- •29.1A Transmission input shaft componeVits
- •29.18B ... 5th gear pinion bush, oil hole (arrowed)...
- •29.18C ... 5th gear pinion, integral 1st gear (arrowed)...
- •29.181 Ensure circlip (arrowed) locates correctly in its groove
- •29.19A Slide on 3rd/4th gear pinion, ensuring oil holes (arrowed) align ...
- •29.19B ... And secure it with the circlip
- •29.20A Slide on the splined washer.
- •Inspection
- •29.33A Slide on the 2nd gear pinion bush...
- •Slots (b) (arrowed)...
- •Inspection
- •30.8 Remove the bearing if necessary
- •30.10 Measuring the selector fork end thickness
- •Installation
- •30.16B ... Then slide the selector drum into place
- •31.9 Inspect the cylinder walls for scratches and scoring
- •31.11 Measure the cylinder bore in the directions shown with a telescoping gauge
- •15 Very difficult,
- •3.2 Coolant reservoir mounting details
- •3.1 The coolant reservoir (arrowed) is located under the air filter housing
- •4.11 Disconnect the wiring connector (a) from the fan switch (b)
- •4.13 Arrangement for testing the fan switch
- •5.2 Wiring connector (a) and temperature sender (b)
- •6.5A Unscrew the thermostat housing cover bolts ...
- •6.5B ... Lift off the cover .
- •6.5C ... And withdraw the thermostat
- •6.8 Arrangement for testing the thermostat
- •Installation
- •Installation
- •7.4A Radiator upper mounting lug (arrowed)
- •7.4B Rubber shroud locates over radiator brackets (arrowed)
- •8.1 Pump to crankcase bolts (a), pump
- •Connection (c) and cooling system drain bolt (0)
- •8.6 Checking for freeplay on the pump impeller
- •Installation
- •9.4A Union on the front of the block is retained by three bolts .
- •9.4B ... And on the back of the head by two bolts
- •9.7B ... And the rear union before reassembly
- •2.1 On sw, sx and sy models, release the screws holding the fairing to the brackets on the front of the tank
- •2.2 Detach the fuel hose from the tap ...
- •2.3 ... And the vacuum hose from the in manifold
- •2.4B ... And detach the drain and breather hoses
- •Installation
- •2.6 Remove and inspect the tank mounting bushes (arrowed)
- •6.1 Carburettor drain screw (arrowed)
- •6.2 Crankcase breather hose (a), carburettor breather hose (b) and sub-air cleaner hose (c)
- •6.5 Carburettor heater hose (arrowed)
- •6.7 Carefully lift the carburettors off the inlet stubs
- •6.10B Lug to locate inlet stub on head (a) and lug for clip on stub (b)
- •6.11A Fit carburettors into air filter housing
- •Installation
- •Inspection
- •7.19 Inspect the carburettor body for wear and damage
- •7.20 Carburettor components - Top cover and retaining screws (a), piston spring (b), jet needle holder and spring (c), jet needle and washer (d), piston (e) and diaphragm (f)
- •7.25 Throttle shaft return spring (a) and butterfly valve (b)
- •7.26 Carburettor synchronising screw (arrowed)
- •8.2 Ensure the choke linkage bar locates correctly on the return spring and collar (a) and choke plunger (b)
- •8.3 Check the operation of the choke linkage
- •8.5 Main jet (a), jet holder (b) and pilot jet(c)
- •8.11 Ensure that needle (a) is aligned with jet (b) when fitting piston assembly
- •8.13 Install the spring into the needle holder
- •9.1 Carburettor assembly
- •9.5 Carburettor joining stud nuts (arrowed)
- •9.6A Throttle linkage springs (a) and fuel supply joint pipe (b)
- •10.2 Accelerator cable (a), decelerator cable (b), lock nut (c) and adjuster (d)
- •10.4 Accelerator cable nipple (a) and decelerator cable nipple (b)
- •10.6 Decelerator cable elbow nut (a) and accelerator cable nut (b)
- •10.7A Separate the halves of the twistgrip housing...
- •Installation
- •11.2 Cable bracket screw (a), inner cable nipple (b) and choke linkage lever (c)
- •Installation
- •Installation
- •13.2 Unscrew the downpipe nuts (arrowed)
- •13.3A Unscrew the nut on the exhaust pipe mounting bolt...
- •Ignition ht coils
- •2.4 Using a spark gap tester - note earth wire (arrowed)
- •3.10 Coil location and mounting bolts (arrowed)
- •4.2A Pulse generator coil wiring connector
- •Installation
- •4.2B Measuring resistance between terminals of the wiring connector
- •4.6 Separate the multi-pin connector from the control unit
- •5.3 Ignition control unit (arrowed)
- •Installation
- •Installation
- •6.4 Unscrew the timing inspection plug
- •3.1 Remove the split pin and washer (a) to withdraw pivot pin. Note fitting of spring (b)
- •Installation
- •3.21 Split pin (a), clevis pin (b), master cylinder pushrod (c). Circlip (d) and washer (e) retain pedal
- •Installation
- •3.24 Gear lever alignment punchmark (arrowed)
- •Installation
- •4.3 Stand spring (a), sidestand switch (b) and pivot bolt nut (c)
- •5.2 Master cylinder clamp bolts (arrowed)
- •5.3 Separate the two halves of the switch and detach the throttle cables from the pulley (arrowed)
- •5.6 Handlebar end-weight screw (arrowed)
- •5.4 Unscrew the clutch lever clamp bolts (arrowed) and separate the two halves of the switch
- •5.8A Handlebar clamp punch marks (arrowed)
- •5.10A Tighten the front bolts (arrowed) first
- •6.4 Slacken the top yoke clamp bolt (a). Fork top bolt (b)
- •5.12 Unscrew the nut (a) and the pivot bolt (b)
- •6.5 Slide the fork leg out of the bottom yoke
- •Installation
- •7.1 Front fork components
- •7.8 Withdraw the damper rod and rebound spring from the tube
- •Installation
- •7.7 Remove the damper rod bolt and sealing washer (arrowed)
- •7.12 Oil seal (a), washer (b), top bush (c) and bottom bush (d)
- •7.10 ... Then carefully remove the oil seal retaining clip
- •Inspection
- •7.15 Checking the fork tube runout with V-blocks and a dial gauge
- •7.11 Pull the fork tube and slider apart to drive the top bush out
- •7.17 Prise the bottom bush apart with a flat-bladed screwdriver and slide it off the end of the tube
- •7.18 Renew the damper rod piston ring if it is worn or damaged
- •7.19B Fit the seat onto the bottom of the rod
- •7.20 Slide the tube into the slider
- •8.2 Bolt (arrowed) secures the horn, bracket and hose clamp on sw, sx and sy models
- •8.4 Bushes (a) locate in sockets (b) on underside of top yoke
- •8.8 Steering stem components
- •Inspection
- •8.6 Adjuster nut (a) and bearing cover (b)
- •Installation
- •8.13 Ensure assembly locates correctly at points (a) and (b)
- •9.4 Drive the bearing outer races out with a brass drift as shown
- •9.7 Using a bearing puller to remove the bearing from the steering stem
- •9.8 Drive the new bearing on with a suitable driver or length of pipe
- •Inspection
- •10.3B ... Then pull the shock off the upper bracket
- •Installation
- •12.2 Chain tensioner assembly
- •11.2 Align notches (a) with adjustment stopper (b). Turn spring seat anticlockwise (c) to increase pre-load, clockwise (d) to reduce pre-load
- •12.3 Torque arm split pin (a), nut (b) and washers (c)
- •12.5 Note how bracket (a) fits in slot (b)
- •12.9 Lower swingarm to clear coolant reservoir (arrowed)
- •Installation
- •12.10A Drive chain slider retaining screw (a) and shouldered washer (b)
- •Installation
- •15.5 Unscrew the sprocket bolt
- •15.7 Slide the sprocket onto the shaft with the chain in place
- •15.11B ... Then unscrew the sprocket nuts
- •15.12 Inspect the rubber damper ring
- •16.3 Inspect the coupling dampers for wear and deterioration
- •16.4 Check the condition of the coupling o-ring
- •2.1A Remove the plug (arrowed)..
- •2.1B ... Then unscrew the pin - r and t models
- •2.2C ... To the left-hand side - V, w, sw, X, sx, y and sy models
- •2.3B If the pads have worn to or beyond the wear limit (arrowed) they must be renewed
- •3.2B Front brake caliper - Brembo type (V, w, sw, X, sx, y and sy models)
- •3.3 Hose banjo bolt (a), caliper mounting bolts (b)
- •3.5 Remove the caliper from the disc
- •3.8A Remove the slider pin boots (a), pad spring (b)...
- •3,17 Caliper should move freely on the bracket
- •Installation
- •3.18 Use new caliper mounting bolts on reassembly
- •Inspection
- •4.2 Checking the brake disc runout
- •4.3A The minimum disc thickness is marked on the disc
- •4.3B Measuring the disc thickness
- •Installation
- •Installation
- •7.3 Note the alignment of the brake hose (arrowed) before removal
- •7.7 Rear brake caliper components
- •Installation
- •8 Rear brake disc (V.W.Sw.X, % sx,Yand sy models)-
- •Inspection
- •Installation
- •9.7 Support the reservoir and lift the bracket away from the bike. Note brake light switch spring (arrowed)
- •To separate brake pedal from master cylinder pushrod
- •9.11 Rear master cylinder components
- •Installation
- •Inspection
- •7»14 Brakes, wheels and tyres
- •11.6A Brake caliper bleed valve
- •11.6B Attach one end of the hose to the bleed valve, submerge the other in the fluid container
- •11.7A Check the fluid level in the reservoir
- •12 Rear drum brake (r and t
- •11.7B Do not allow the fluid to fall below the lower level mark (arrowed) in the front...
- •11.7C ... Or rear brake fluid reservoir
- •12.3 Pinch bolt (a), alignment marks (b) and wear indicator (c)
- •12.5 Spring ends (a) and brake cam (b)
- •Inspection
- •Installation
- •12.6B ... Then ease the shoes and cam off the backplate
- •13.2 Check the wheel for radial (out-of-
- •15.2A Remove the screw (arrowed) and pull the cable out of the drive unit
- •15.2B Note how rib (a) locates behind "ug (b)
- •Installation
- •15.3 Unscrew the axle nut
- •15.4B ... And withdraw the axle
- •16.5 Support the wheel and withdraw the axle
- •16.6 Slip the chain off the sprocket
- •Installation
- •Installation
- •16.29 Ensure the disc is square in the caliper before Installing the axle - V, w, sw, X, sx, y and sy models
- •17.29 Lever out the grease seal
- •17.30 Drive out the spacer with a long socket
- •17.34A The spacer fits on the inside of the coupling bearing
- •17.34B Support the inner bearing race with a suitable socket (a) while driving the spacer in (b)
- •2.1A Unscrew the bolt (arowed)...
- •2.1B ... And pull the peg (arrowed) out of the fixing grommet
- •3.1 Bar (a) locates in lock mechanism (b)
- •3.2 Seat hooks over bar under seat cowling at the rear
- •4.2 Remove the screws on each side of the tail light (arrowed)
- •7 Fairing
- •Installation
- •Installation
- •1 General information
- •3.2 Battery cover is retained by a single bolt (arrowed)
- •Inspection and maintenance
- •5.1 Main fuse (a), fusebox (b)
- •5.2B Unclip relay wiring connector to access main fuse
- •5.3 A blown fuse can be identified by a break in its element
- •7.1A Remove the headlight rim screws (arrowed)...
- •7.3 Remove the rubber cover
- •7.10 Twist anticlockwise and pull to remove the sidelight bulb
- •8.2 Note the arrangement of the wiring and the clamps (arrowed)
- •8.5 Align the marks (arrowed) on the headlight shell and brackets
- •8.7 Lower mounting bolts (a), bracket (b) and upper bolt (c) 8.8 Don't forget the spacer (a) when installing the upper
- •9.1 Tail light lens is retained by screws (arrowed) 9.2 Twist anticlockwise and pull to remove the bulb
- •10.2 Tail light wiring connector (arrowed)
- •Installation
- •10.3 Tail light assembly is retained by nuts, bolts and spacers (arrowed)
- •11.8 Rear brake light switch (arrowed)
- •12.3 Turn signal relay (arrowed)
- •14.1 Wiring connectors for the front turn signals 13.1 Signal lens is retained by screw (a) and tab (b)
- •13.2 Twist anticlockwise and pull to remove the bulb
- •Instrument cluster - r, t, V, w, X and y models
- •14.5 Wiring connectors for the rear turn signals
- •15.13 Remove the screw (arrowed) and withdraw the cable
- •15.15 Forked end (a) engages on spade drive (b)
- •16.17 Tachometer and temperature gauge are retained by two screws (arrowed)
- •16.20 Tachometer wiring connectors (a), tachometer retaining screws (b)
- •Installation
- •Installation
- •20.2 Neutral switch wiring connector (arrowed)
- •21.3 Sidestand switch wiring connector (arrowed)
- •21.7 Sidestand switch bolt (arrowed)
- •Installation
- •22.2 Disconnect the wiring connectors (arrowed)
- •23.2 Locate the diode on the main wiring harness
- •Installation
- •25.5D ... And detach the switch from the handlebar
- •28.6 Ensure o-ring seats in its groove (arrowed)
- •Installation
- •28.8 Use two spanners when tightening the terminal nut
- •29.14 There should be no continuity between the commutator bars and the armature shaft
- •29.24 Align washer tabs with inside of front cover
- •29.25A Ensure the marks on the housing and end covers are aligned ...
- •29.25B ... And the flat edges of the d-washers are correctly located
- •31.3 Checking the charging system leakage rate - connect the meter as shown
- •32.2 Disconnect the alternator wiring connector
- •32.8 Alternator wiring clamp bolt (a) and stator bolts (b)
- •32.10A The rotor must be removed from the shaft with a puller as shown ...
- •Installation
- •32.10B ... Then remove the Woodruff key from the shaft
- •32.12A Fit the Woodruff key in its slot...
- •9*22 Electrical system
- •32.12B ... Then align the rotor with the key and install it on the shaft
- •33.1 The regulator/rectifier
- •33.6 Test connections and data
- •1.3 This auxiliary stand attaches to the swingarm pivot
- •1.1 Hydraulic motorcycle ramp
- •1.4 Always use a block of wood between the engine and jack head when supporting the engine in this way
- •1.5 Use an approved can only for storing petrol (gasoline)
- •1.6 A fire extinguisher, goggles, mask and protective gloves should be at hand
- •In the workshop
- •2.1 Internal hexagon/Allen (a), Torx (b) and splined (c) fasteners, with corresponding bits
- •2.2 External Torx (a), splined (b) and hexagon (c) fasteners, with corresponding sockets
- •2.3 Plain washer (a), penny washer (b), spring washer (c) and serrated washer (d)
- •2.4 Plain nut (a), shouldered locknut (b), nylon insert nut (c) and castellated nut (d)
- •2.5 Bend split pin (cotter pin) arms as shown (arrows) to secure a castellated nut
- •2.7 Correct fitting of r-pin. Arrow indicates forward direction
- •2.8 External stamped circlip (a), internal stamped circlip (b), machined circlip (c)
- •2.9 Correct fitting of a stamped circlip
- •2.10 Align circlip opening with shaft channel
- •2.11 Fastener length (l), thread diameter (d), thread pitch (p) and head size (af)
- •2.12 Using a thread gauge to measure pitch
- •2.13 A sharp tap on the head of a fastener will often break free a corroded thread
- •2.14 Using an impact driver to free a fastener
- •2.16 Using a hammer and chisel to free a seized fastener
- •2.17 Using a stud extractor tool to remove a broken crankcase stud
- •2.18 Two nuts can be locked together to unscrew a stud from a component
- •2.21 Comparison of surface drive ring spanner (left) with 12-point type (right)
- •2.23 A thread repair tool being used to correct an external thread
- •2.24 Using a thread restorer file
- •3.2 Check micrometer calibration before use
- •3.1 Feeler gauges are used for measuring small gaps and clearances - thickness is marked on one face of gauge
- •3.3 Micrometer component parts
- •Internal micrometer
- •Vernier caliper
- •3.9 Expand the small hole gauge in the bore, lock its position ...
- •3.10 ... Then measure the gauge with a micrometer
- •3.11 Vernier component parts (linear gauge)
- •3.12 Vernier gauge reading of 55.92 mm
- •3.13 Vernier component parts (dial gauge)
- •3.14 Vernier gauge reading of 55.95 mm
- •3.15 Plastigauge placed across shaft journal
- •3.16 Measuring the width of the crushed Plastigauge
- •3.17 Dial gauge reading of 1.48 mm
- •3.18 Using a dial gauge to measure shaft runout
- •3.19 Using a dial gauge to measure shaft endfloat
- •3.20 Using a rubber-cone type cylinder compression gauge
- •3.21 Oil pressure gauge and take-off point adapter (arrow)
- •3.22 Use a straight-edge and feeler gauges to check for warpage
- •3.23 Check for warpage in these directions
- •4.4 When slackening, work from the outside inwards
- •4.1 Set the torque wrench index mark to the setting required, in this case 12 Nm
- •4.3 ... Or by marking the angle on the surrounding component
- •4.5 When tightening, work from the inside outwards
- •4.6 If you can't pull on the spanner to loosen a fastener, push with your hand open
- •5.1 Using a bearing driver against the bearing's outer race
- •5.2 Using a large socket against the bearing's outer race
- •5.3 This bearing puller clamps behind the bearing and pressure is applied to the shaft end to draw the bearing off
- •5.12 A casing can be immersed in a sink of boiling water to aid bearing removal
- •5.13 Using a localised heat source to aid bearing removal
- •5.11 Installing a new bearing (1) in the suspension arm
- •5.18 Example of ball journal bearing with damaged balls and cages
- •5.14 Shell bearings are either plain or grooved. They are usually identified by colour code (arrow)
- •5.15 Tapered roller bearing (a), needle roller bearing (b) and ball journal bearing (c)
- •5.16 Typical bearing marking
- •5.17 Typical bearing failures
- •5.19 Hold outer race and listen to inner race when spun
- •6 Oil seals
- •6.2 These oil seal markings indicate
- •Inside diameter, outside diameter and seal thickness
- •7.1 If a pry point is provided, apply gently pressure with a flat-bladed screwdriver
- •7.2 Tap around the joint with a soft-faced mallet if necessary - don't strike cooling fins
- •8.6 ... Followed by the sideplate
- •8.7 Push the sideplate into position using a clamp
- •8.8 Assemble the chain riveting tool over one pin at a time and tighten it fully
- •8.11 Chain dimensions
- •8.10 Typical chain size and type marking
- •Introduction
- •Good quality and long enough to shackle
- •... Again, always ensure that the kit manufacturer's sticker is applied in a prominent position
- •Volume (capacity)
- •Velocity (speed)
- •Inspect the area around the fork dust seal for oil leakage (arrow)
- •2 Poor running at low speeds
- •5 Clutch problems
- •6 Gearchanging problems
- •Valve noise
- •8 Abnormal driveline noise
- •9 Abnormal frame and suspension noise
- •10 Oil pressure warning light comes on
- •12 Poor handling or stability
- •14 Electrical problems
- •Screw the compression gauge adapter
- •Into the spark plug hole, then screw the gauge into the adapter
- •A selection of jumper wires for making earth (ground) checks
- •Illustration)
- •Installing a Helicoil thread insert in a cylinder head
- •Illustration).
- •Idle speed - w
- •Ignition system
- •Inside this Manual
Installation
Unscrew the bolts securing the sprocket cover and remove it and the chain guide (see illustration).
Install the chain through the chainguard and around the front and rear sprockets, leaving the two ends in a convenient position to work on.
Refer to Section 8 in Tools and Workshop Tips in the Reference Section. Install the new joining link from the inside with the four O-rings correctly located between the link plates. Install the new side plate with its identification marks facing out. Measure the amount that the joining link pins project from the side plate and check they are within the measurements specified at the beginning of this Chapter for RK and DID chains. Stake the new link using the drive chain cutting/staking
tool, carefully following the instructions of both the chain manufacturer and the tool manufacturer. DO NOT re-use old joining link components.
After staking, check the joining link and staking for any signs of cracking (see illustration). If there is any evidence of cracking, the joining link, O-rings and side plate must be renewed. Measure the diameter of the staked ends in two directions and check that they are evenly staked and within the measurements specified at the beginning of this Chapter.
Install the front sprocket cover and chain guide, then adjust and lubricate the chain following the procedures described in Chapter 1.
^
*
15 Sprockets - check , removal and installation
Check
15.5 Unscrew the sprocket bolt
Unscrew the bolts securing the front sprocket cover and remove it and the chain guide (see illustration 14.5).
Check the wear pattern on both sprockets (see Chapter 1, Section 1). If the teeth of
either sprocket are worn excessively, renew the chain and both sprockets as a set. Whenever the sprockets are inspected, the drive chain should be inspected also (see Chapter 1). If you are renewing the chain, renew the sprockets as well.
3 Adjust and lubricate the chain following the procedures described in Chapter 1. Caution: Use only the recommended lubricant.
Front sprocket
15.7 Slide the sprocket onto the shaft with the chain in place
Unscrew the bolts securing the sprocket cover and remove it and the chain guide (see illustration 14.5).
Have an assistant apply the rear brake, then unscrew the sprocket bolt and remove the washer (see illustration).
Slacken the drive chain (see Chapter 1). slide the sprocket and chain off the shaft and slip the sprocket out of the chain.
Engage the new sprocket with the chain and slide it on the shaft with its marked side facing outwards (see illustration). Install the sprocket bolt and washer and hand tighten. Adjust the chain tension (see Chapter 1).
Have an assistant apply the rear brake, then tighten the sprocket bolt to the torque setting specified at the beginning of this Chapter.
Install the front sprocket cover and chain guide, then check and lubricate the chain
Frame, suspension and final drive 6*17
15.11a Pull the sprocket coupling from the hub...
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