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Учебное пособие.doc
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Jump of quality

Searches of soft surface-active substances proceed all time. At once after sulphosukcinates in shampoos, including children's shampoos, have appeared sodium cocoamfodiacetates (BETADET THC-2) which possess good dermatological properties. But the true break in manufacture of means for hair washing has been connected with betains (or, more precisely, cocoamidopropilbetains - BETADET HR-50K) which have appeared in the beginning of 70th years.

These substances make shampoos by softer: even the small additive of betains allows to lower concentration of electrolytes (that is salts) in shampoos as they in themselves can stiffen solutions of sodium lauretsulphate. Besides in comparison with sulphosukcinates and cocoamfodiacetates betains have much higher physical stability. If sulphosukcinates at long storage or downturn of temperature can drop out in a deposit and make a ready product muddy, and cocoamfodiacetates sometimes give to shampoos the undesirable yellowish shade, shampoos with betains of new generation (so-called sulphobetains) can be stored even at negative temperatures. Such solutions do not grow turbid down to – 100С.

Some multipurpose additives, such as diethanolamides of fat acids of coconut oil, also raise frost resistance. They are used usually as the thickeners, allowing to relieve our head from excessive salting. Besides they protect a skin from degreasing at washing, allowing it to keep natural water-lipophilic balance. These substances possess also other advantages: for example, they stabilize foam and allow to enter into shampoos various disperse additives without risk, that the mix will be stratified.

Electrostatics laws in operation

The ready washing mix consists of the basic surface-active substance, one - two co-SAS and the thickener-stabilizer of foam. Shampoo perfectly washes off from hair surpluses of skin bacon together with dirty and dust, it is good foamed, does not irritate a skin, is long stored, does not devastate our pocket and even has a pleasant and convenient consistence.

However if to not accept special measures, the hair deprived of natural antistatic protection - skin bacon - will be electrified.

Sodium lauretsulphate is the substance of anionic nature, its molecules carry a negative charge. Not charged molecules would be difficult to put between hair and the fat which has accumulated on it, but after transition of skin bacon in a solution on hair there is a small negative charge which is desirable for neutralizing. For this purpose conditioner structures have thought up, which main components – cation-active substances and cation polymers. Being adsorbed on hair, they remove from them a charge, make hair softer and obedient.

Some oils, for example, silicone oils and jojoba oil, and also wax carry out the similar function. The tiny droplet of any of these substances, having adjoined with hair, in regular intervals spreads on its surface, replacing removed during washing the skin bacon and restoring electrostatic protection. After such processing hair become soft and brilliant.