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Rotor Holder: 57001-1658

• Using the flywheel puller [A], remove the alternator rotor from the crankshaft.

Special Tool - Flywheel Puller Assembly, M38 × 1.5/M35 ×

1.5: 57001-1405

Alternator Rotor Installation

• Using a cleaning fluid, clean off any oil or dirt on the fol- lowing portions and dry them with a clean cloth.

Crankshaft Tapered Portion [A] Alternator Rotor Tapered Portion [B]

• Apply a thin coat of molybdenum disulfide grease to the

crankshaft [C].

• Install the starter gear [A] and washer [B].

• Again, clean the crankshaft tapered portion [C] and dry

there.

• Install the alternator rotor [A] while turning [B] it counter- clockwise.

• Install the washer [A].

NOTE

○Confirm the alternator rotor fit or not to the crankshaft

before tightening it with specified torque.

• Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution to the threads and seating surface of the rotor bolt.

• Install the rotor bolt [B] and tighten it with 70 N·m (7.0

kgf·m, 52 ft·lb) of torque.

• Remove the rotor bolt and washer.

• Check the tightening torque with flywheel puller.

If the rotor is not pulled out with 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15

ft·lb) of drawing torque, it is installed correctly.

If the rotor is pulled out with under 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15 ft·lb) of drawing torque, clean off any oil dirt or flaw of the crankshaft and rotor tapered portion, and dry them with a clean cloth. Then, confirm that it is not pulled out with above torque.

• Tighten the alternator rotor bolt while holding the alterna-

tor rotor steady with the rotor holder.

Special Tools - Grip: 57001-1591

Rotor Holder: 57001-1658

Torque - Alternator Rotor Bolt: 155 N·m (15.8 kgf·m, 114 ft·lb)

• Apply a thin coat of molybdenum disulfide grease to the shafts [A], and install them.

• Install the torque limiter [B] and starter idle gear [C].

• Install the alternator cover (see Alternator Cover Installa-

tion).

Alternator Inspection

There are three types of alternator failures: short, open (wire burned out), or loss in rotor magnetism. A short or open in one of the coil wires will result in either a low output, or no output at all. A loss in rotor magnetism, which may be caused by dropping or hitting the alternator, by leaving it near an electromagnetic field, or just by aging, will result in low output.

• To check the alternator output voltage, do the following procedures.

○Turn off the ignition switch.

○Disconnect the alternator lead connector [A].

○Connect the hand tester as shown in the table 1.

○Start the engine.

○Run it at the rpm given in the table 1.

○Note the voltage readings (total 3 measurements).

Table 1 Alternator Output Voltage

Tester Range

Connections

Reading at 4 000 rpm

Tester (+) to

Tester (–) to

250 V AC

One Black lead

Another Black lead

42 V or more

If the output voltage shows the value in the table, the al- ternator operates properly.

If the output voltage shows a much higher than the value in the table, the regulator/rectifier is damaged. A much lower reading than that given in the table indicates that the alternator is defective.

• Check the stator coil resistance as follows.

○Stop the engine.

○Connect the hand tester as shown in the table 2.

○Note the readings (total 3 measurement).

Table 2 Stator Coil Resistance

Tester Range

Connections

Reading

Tester (+) to

Tester (–) to

× 1 Ω

One Black lead

Another Black lead

0.18  0.27 Ω

If there is more resistance than shown in the table, or no hand tester reading (infinity) for any two leads, the stator has an open lead and must be replaced. Much less than this resistance means the stator is shorted, and must be replaced.

• Using the highest resistance range of the hand tester,

measure the resistance between each of the black leads

and chassis ground.

Any hand tester reading less than infinity (∞) indicates a short, necessitating stator replacement.

If the stator coils have normal resistance, but the voltage check showed the alternator to be defective; then the rotor magnets have probably weakened, and the rotor must be replaced.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

Regulator/Rectifier Inspection

EX650A Models

• Remove: Bolts [A]

• Disconnect the connector [A].

• Remove the regulator/rectifier [B].

EX650B Models

• Remove the bolts [A].

• Disconnect the connector [B].

• Remove the regulator/rectifier [C].

Rectifier Circuit Check

• Check conductivity of the following pair of terminals.

Rectifier Circuit Inspection

Tester connection

W/BL-BK1,

W/BL-BK2,

W/BL-BK3

BK/Y-BK1,

BK/Y-BK2,

BK/Y-BK3

The resistance should be low in one direction and more than ten times as much in the other direction. If any two leads are low or high in both directions, the rectifier is defective and the regulator/rectifier must be replaced.

NOTE

○The actual meter reading varies with the meter used

and the individual rectifier, but, generally speaking the

lower reading should be from zero to one half the scale.

Regulator Circuit Check

To test the regulator out of circuit, use three 12 V batteries and a test light (12 V 3  6 W bulb in a socket with leads).

• Check to be sure the rectifier circuit is normal before con- tinuing.

• Do the 1st step regulator circuit test.

○Connect the test light and the 12 V battery to the regula-

tor/rectifier as shown.

○Check the BK1, BK2 and BK3 terminal respectively.

If the test light turns on, the regulator/rectifier is defective.

Replace it.

If the test light does not turn on, continue the test.

• Do the 2nd step regulator circuit test.

○Connect the test light and the 12 V battery in the same

manner as specified in the “Regulator Circuit Test-1st

Step”.

○Apply 12 V to the voltage BR terminal.

○Check the BK1, BK2 and BK3 terminal respectively.

If the test light turns on, the regulator/rectifier is defective.

Replace it.

If the test light does not turn on, continue the test.

• Do the 3rd step regulator circuit test.

○Connect the test light and the 12 V battery in the same

manner as specified in the “Regulator Circuit Test-1st

Step”.

○Momentarily apply 24 V to the voltage BR terminal by

adding a 12 V battery.

○Check the BK1, BK2 and BK3 terminals respectively.

If the test light did not light when the 24 V was applied momentarily to the voltage monitoring terminal, the regu- lator/rectifier is defective. Replace it.

If the regulator/rectifier passes all of the tests described, it may still be defective. If the charging system still does not work properly after checking all of the components and the battery, test the regulator/rectifier by replacing it with a known good unit.

Charging Voltage Inspection

• Check the battery condition (see Charging Condition In- spection).

• Warm up the engine to obtain actual alternator operating

conditions.

• Remove the seat (see Seat Removal in the Frame chap- ter).

• Check that the ignition switch is turned off, and connect

the hand tester [A] to the battery terminals [B].

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

• Start the engine, and note the voltage readings at var- ious engine speeds with the headlight turned on and

then turned off (To turn off the headlight, disconnect the headlight connector on the headlight unit). The readings should show nearly battery voltage when the engine speed is low, and, as the engine speed rises, the read- ings should also rise. But they must be kept under the specified voltage.

Charging Voltage

Tester Range

Connections

Reading

Tester (+) to

Tester (–) to

25 V DC

Battery (+)

Battery (–)

14.2  15.2 V

• Turn off the ignition switch to stop the engine, and discon- nect the hand tester.

If the charging voltage is kept between the values given in the table, the charging system is considered to be working normally.

If the charging voltage is much higher than the values specified in the table, the regulator/rectifier is defective or the regulator/rectifier leads are loose or open.

If the charging voltage does not rise as the engine speed increases, then the regulator/rectifier is defective or the alternator output is insufficient for the loads. Check the alternator and regulator/rectifier to determine which part is defective.

Charging System Circuit

  1. Ignition Switch

  2. Alternator

  3. Regulator/Rectifier

  4. Water-proof Joint C

  5. Main Fuse 30 A

  6. Battery 12 V 10 Ah

  7. Load

Starter Motor Clutch

Starter Motor Clutch Removal/Installation

• Refer to the Alternator Rotor Removal/Installation.

Starter Motor Clutch Inspection

• Remove:

Alternator Cover (see Alternator Cover Removal)

Starter Idle Gear and Torque Limiter Shafts

• Turn the starter motor clutch gear [A] by hand. The starter

motor clutch gear should turn clockwise [B] freely, but

should not turn counterclockwise [C].

If the starter motor clutch does not operate as it should or if it makes noise, go to the next step.

• Disassemble the starter motor clutch, and visually inspect

the clutch parts.

If there is any worn or damaged part, replace it.

NOTE

○Examine the starter motor clutch gear as well. Replace

it if it worn or damaged.

Starter Motor Clutch Disassembly

• Remove:

Alternator Rotor (see Alternator Rotor Removal)

Starter Motor Clutch Bolts [A]

• Remove:

Starter Motor Clutch [A]

Starter Motor Clutch Assembly

• Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of the starter motor clutch bolts and tighten them.

Torque - Starter Motor Clutch Bolts: 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25 ft·lb)

Crankshaft Sensor Removal

• Remove:

Lower Fairing (see Lower Fairing Removal in the Frame

chapter)

Right Frame Cover (see Frame Cover Removal in the Frame chapter)

Crankshaft Sensor Lead Connector [A]

• Remove:

Rubber Boot (Slide Out) [A]

Oil Pressure Switch Lead Terminal [B]

Clutch Cover (see Clutch Cover Removal in the Clutch chapter)

• Remove: Bolts [A]

Crankshaft Sensor [B]

• Pull out the grommet [C].

Crankshaft Sensor Installation

• Route the crankshaft sensor lead correctly (see Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter).

• Tighten:

Torque - Crankshaft Sensor Bolts: 6.0 N·m (0.60 kgf·m, 53

in·lb)

• Apply silicone sealant [A] to the crankshaft sensor lead grommet.

Sealant - Kawasaki Bond (Silicone Sealant): 92104-0004

• Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).

Crankshaft Sensor Inspection

• Remove:

Right Frame Cover (see Frame Cover Removal in the

Frame chapter)

Crankshaft Sensor Lead Connector [A]

• Set the hand tester to the × 100 Ω range and connect (+) lead to the black lead and (–) lead to the yellow lead in

the connector.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

If there is more resistance than the specified value, the coil has an open lead and must be replaced. Much less than this resistance means the coil is shorted, and must be replaced.

Crankshaft Sensor Resistance: 376 564 Ω

• Using the highest resistance range of the tester, measure the resistance between the crankshaft sensor leads and

chassis ground.

Any tester reading less than infinity (∞) indicates a short, necessitating replacement of the crankshaft sensor as- sembly.

Crankshaft Sensor Peak Voltage Inspection

NOTE

○Be sure the battery is fully charged.

○Using the peak voltage adapter [A] is a more reliable

way to determine the condition of the crankshaft sen-

sor than crankshaft sensor internal resistance measure- ments.

• Remove:

Crankshaft Sensor Lead Connector (see Crankshaft

Sensor Removal)

• Set the hand tester [B] to the × DC 10 V range, and con- nect it peak voltage adapter.

• Connect the black lead of the adapter to yellow lead and

red lead to black lead in the crankshaft sensor connector.

• Turn the ignition switch and engine stop switch ON.

• Pushing the starter button, turn the engine 4  5 sec- onds with the transmission gear in neutral to measure the

crankshaft sensor peak voltage.

• Repeat the measurement 5 or more times.

Crankshaft Sensor Peak Voltage Standard: 1.9 V or more

Special Tools - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

Peak Voltage Adapter: 57001-1415 Type: KEK-54-9-B

If the tester reading is not specified one, check the crank- shaft sensor.

Timing Rotor Removal

• Remove:

Clutch Cover (see Clutch Cover Removal in the Clutch

chapter)

Crankshaft Sensor (see Crankshaft Sensor Removal)

• Remove the timing rotor [A].

○Holding the timing rotor with the flywheel & pulley holder

[B] and unscrew the rotor bolt [C].

Special Tool - Flywheel & Pulley Holder: 57001-1605

Timing Rotor Installation

• Fit the rotor to the crankshaft.

• Tighten the rotor bolt.

Torque - Timing Rotor Bolt: 40 N·m (4.1 kgf·m, 30 ft·lb)

• Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).

Stick Coil (Ignition Coil together with Spark Plug Cap) Removal

• Remove the air cleaner housing (see Air Cleaner Housing

Removal in the Fuel System (DFI) chapter).

• Disconnect the stick coil connectors [A].

• Pull the stick coils [B] off the spark plugs.

Stick Coil (Ignition Coil together with Spark Plug Cap) Installation

• Insert the coil as shown being careful of the coil heads [A]

direction.

• Connect the connectors.

• Run the hoses and harness correctly (see Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter).

• Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).

Stick Coil (Ignition Coil together with Spark Plug Cap) Inspection

• Remove the stick coils (see Stick Coil (Ignition Coil to-

gether with Spark Plug Cap) Removal).

• Measure the primary winding resistance [A] as follows.

○Connect the hand tester between the coil terminals.

○Set the tester to the × 1 Ω range, and read the tester.

• Measure the secondary winding resistance [B] as follows.

○Connect the tester between the plug terminal and (–) coil

terminal.

○Set the tester to the × 1 kΩ range and read the tester.

Ignition Coil Winding Resistance Primary Windings: 1.1 1.5 Ω

Secondary Windings: 10.8 16.2 kΩ

If the tester does not read as specified, replace the coil.

Stick Coil Primary Peak Voltage

NOTE

○Be sure the battery is fully charged.

• Remove the stick coils (see Stick Coil (Ignition Coil to- gether with Spark Plug Cap) Removal), but do not remove

the spark plugs.

• Measure the primary peak voltage as follows.

○Install the new spark plug [A] into each stick coil [B], and

ground them onto the engine.

○Connect the peak voltage adapter [C] into the hand tester

[D] which is set to the × DC 250 V range.

○Connect the adapter to the lead wire-peak voltage

adapter [E] which is connected between the stick coil

connector and stick coil. ECU [F]

Battery [G]

Special Tools - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

Peak Voltage Adapter: 57001-1415 Type: KEK-54-9-B

Lead Wire-Peak Voltage Adapter: 57001

-1449

Primary Lead Connection

Adapter (R, +) to lead wire-peak voltage adapter (W) Adapter (BK, –) to lead wire-peak voltage adapter (R)

• Turn the ignition switch and the engine stop switch ON.

• Pushing the starter button, turn the engine 4  5 seconds

with the transmission in neutral to measure the primary

peak voltage.

• Repeat the measurements 5 times for one stick coil.

Stick Coil Primary Peak Voltage Standard: 88 V or more

• Repeat the test for the other stick coil.

If the reading is less than the specified value, check the

following.

Stick Coils (see Stick Coil (Ignition Coil together with Spark Plug Cap) Inspection)

Crankshaft Sensor (see Crankshaft Sensor Inspection) ECU (see ECU Power Supply Inspection in the Fuel Sys- tem (DFI) chapter)

Spark Plug Removal

• Refer to the Spark Plug Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.

Spark Plug Installation

• Refer to the Spark Plug Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.

Spark Plug Condition Inspection

• Refer to the Spark Plug Condition Inspection in the Peri- odic Maintenance chapter.

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